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There is no component that is specifically prone to leakage. Renew the old seals and use as few gaskets as possible. I built my engine using only intake manifold gaskets and a water pump gasket. Everything else got anaerobic gasket maker or RTV. Transfer case was done with anaerobic gasket...

Every GM V8 I have opened has had a worn front cam bearing. Definitely a good idea to renew.

If you drive your AC motors with a variable frequency drive you need 0% excess power to be able to start the motor. Direct online starts require 50% excess available and soft starter land somewhere in-between. VFD's are cheap!

Engine running with volt gauge in yellow means the alternator isn't charging.

Yes, the 6.5 pan will fit your CUCV frame. I made a new dipstick tube out of some copper tubing. I brazed a wire ring in the bottom as a stop, cut the tube a little long, bent it to fit, brazed a bracket to grab an exhaust bolt, put 7 quarts oil in the pan (-1 for the filter), cut the top of...

You can also use a battery charger and some zinc to galvanized it.

It needs to be coated with something not soluble in diesel fuel. I'd try soaking it in some engine coolant first.

If you can, get a more modern rim size. I bought some steelies from a contemporary Dodge for my M1008, up from 16 to 17. It opened up a whole new world or tire options without drastically altering the appearance of the truck. I can't speak specifically for the 15" rims.

Diesel engine testers need to be more sensitive because they have more excess air in the exhaust and less CO2. They require special fluid as a result. Otherwise, no bubbles is a good sign. I don't think those 318s were prone to head gasket failures. No bubbles is a more valuable result than no...

I recently had a Cat 3512 blow a head gasket. Despite a constant flow of bubbles through the tester it never turned colors. I even had the special diesel fluid. Were you getting bubbles through the tester? Here is one bubbling furiously and here is the head with soot stains where it was leaking.

You can always change it later. Now that the t-stat housing is open I strongly suggest filling the engine to the top of the t-stat housing, removing the water pump belt and running the engine.

You could add a volatile corrosion inhibitor to the fuel tank. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/vpci326_1.php

If you open the t-stat housing, fill with water until it overflows, and run the engine with the belts off you may see bubbles indicating a leak.

Dishwasher detergent is part one and phosphoric acid is part two if you can't buy it locally. If you don't like using your own chemicals your local heavy duty diesel dealer has flushing kits.

My CUCV with a 6.2 (I know it's a different engine) had a blown head gasket. It only leaked one way. The radiator would hold pressure for months if I wasn't driving it. Pop the cap, burst of coolant. Engine ran fine otherwise. As it got worse it started overflowing the overflow. Anyways pulling...

Well that is a bummer. Maybe it's time someone does a production run on some aluminum ones.

Diamond Diesel in Oakland is a Stanadyne distributor. Diamond Diesel & Turbo Service (510) 532-8500 https://g.co/kgs/aRwzSA

You can't measure temperature at a dead end, it has to be somewhere with flow. It's easy to get the pan off the truck. Put the temp sensor there. I will repeat, however, oil temperature is unimportant on these engines. If you want to know the oil temp, just add 10°F to the coolant temp.

It's in a difficult spot to see. It's on the passenger side, behind your alternator next to the timing cover, just below where the head meets the block. I actually permanently tapped mine with a stainless steel tube so I can get oil pressure from it.

The threads are not the sealing surface in either inverted flare or tube-o. You must use the correct fitting geometry. The female inverted flare fitting has an angled seat that the tubing bottoms out against. This is where the seal occurs. The Tube-O female has a pilot that an o-ring slides...