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Wait that looks like something CUCVRUS could fix!!!

This is why you are not supposed to crank and crank for extended amounts of time without letting the starter rest. The fluid gets hot and evaporates and binds up your starter. Then it is real hard to drain what's left and refill with new. That is why a straw is needed on fluid can to insert into...

I believe the part # for the spacers is 15634661. Nearly unobtanium! Probably salvage yard only unless you get lucky. If you find an extra set let me know!

National is what is available here to get back to going. I will check the vents.

I tend to agree. I will leave it oil bath with National Gold 380003A Stemco type inside seal.

Ok, Thanks for the quick reply Wes! That makes sense. I could not figure out why that seal was necessary for the oil bath.

I had an inside oil seal leaking on right rear. Pulled it apart and inside seal had been damaged when military rebuilt. Axle flange had rtv sealant only. No gasket or seals. Parts manual shows outer oil seals just under axle flange. They consist of 2 paper gaskets and an 8 hole metal oil seal...

Dang!!

Now would never be a better time to replace head gaskets since they are old enough to fail and have heads checked while off! Just my 2 cents.

My CUCV's have an alternator above the power steering pump!:):)

Also put a little dielectric grease on the connections after cleaning them.

Rev it up or drive faster usually works!!!:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

If a head gasket was not available, I can see trying to reuse one as some have suggested. It might work and get you going. If the gasket is readily available, I think money would be well spent to buy the new gasket and use it for the sake of not having to redo it again. Good luck with whatever...

In!!! THANKS Hawker!!!

That is probably unburned diesel mixed with carbon because that injector may not be spraying correctly. That could be your miss!

The alternator pulley looks suspect to me. I would suggest a solid machined pulley instead of the stamped steel type like you have. Probably need one on the other side too. I would also try another crank pulley and compare it if you have one available.

The SAE- LT means Society of Automotive Engineers Lubrication Thread.

I would rather use the TC from the used transmission you are installing than the cooked one if trying to save a buck.

Hydraulic hoses take a lot more heat on my tractors than your cucv produces I bet! A rubber hose will not dissipate heat as well as a steel line though.

Ok, if your tie rod ends are loose replace them and then put on a HD steering damper to prevent tie rods from wearing out prematurely! :) :) :)