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RE: Thinking about making an M1009 clone out of one of my K5 the m1009's only have a gov-lok in the rear, the front is an open diff. the only cucv's that got the front posi unit were the m1028's and some m1031's

ROTFL he has the gears but doesnt have them in the truck ;)

800miles in a m1008 isnt that bad. I did the trip to aberdeen in mine, and that was 1000 each way.

all cucv's except for the m1028's and m1031's got the np208 (less parts in the supply chain)

you can only tighten a box so much, and if you do tighten it the wear will be accelerated greatly. the two joints on the drag link (goes from pitman arm to the steering arm on the axle) are the first to check. once those are ruled out, check the rag joint as listed above, then the next part to...

I may have access to a parts truck soon, let me know if you still need it.

give the new owner a few minutes to bask, before revealing himself. and yes, he bought both.

also i would change out the main power feed wire from the buss bar to the starter, a bad wire could cause low voltage and that will eat a starter quick. also replace the engine to chassis ground.

i drove almost 500miles home on 100% ATF, it was new though. runs great.

you and that freaking monkey cage, sheesh

welcome aboard , and thanks for the info. I dont think i'd run wmo in my cucv, but I will be running it in my deuce.

yup i got it, thanks.

it is the standard length for a K30 chevy, but I'm sure someone will be able to get the length for you. Remember to take new ujoints as well, and check the fluids in the drivetrain before moving it.

i have mine hooked up with the connector on the drivers side of the rear (kinda by the support brace for the bumper). I have the 7-round and 4-flat combination adapter, but its not a perfect fit into the hole. its slightly too long so it doesnt sit flush with the mounting surface.

the original rims need tubes. also the lock ring on the rim can be dangerous when airing back up, if you dont know what you are doing. I'd recommend taking them up to a tire shop that does large trucks, they will be familiar with them and have the proper safety gear.

RE: 85- M1009 MISSING STARTER & BOTH ALT.S CONVERT TO for manuals, see the post at the top of this forum, you need the unit manual, the electric stuff is in appendix E

RE: 85- M1009 MISSING STARTER & BOTH ALT.S CONVERT TO First are you planning on buying any other military trucks, if you are I'd leave it 24v just for ease in jumpstarting one vehicle from another. If you want to change it over to 12v its not that hard, only have to move a few wires.

we "might" and i do mean "might" be able to do something about this in a month or two. just wait patiently for now please.

i have an engine i am parting out, let me see if it has that bolt still in it.

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