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Curious does it fail in both high and low beams?

Not your exact setup but the solenoid lever is in the same place in reference to the tab. This is the no fuel position, as you see if you slide the cover forward you are compressing the solenoid spring which is holding the linkage in the no fuel position. If you slide the cover forward and do...

Yes you are correct on the tab,I was wrong, you start with the front of the cover down on the pump as you slide the cover forward and down as the solenoid will allow you to until it drops in. If you have it correct if you slide the cover forward you will feel spring tension pushing the cover...

Let me go look, now you have me wondering.

Now you have. They were fitted for use here, those doors were replaced with armor doors before deployment.

Flat X doors only fit the up armored trucks

Welcome to the SS forums! I used to work allot over there in Vidor Texas The company I worked for had a compressor Sta. there.

Link?

PM sent.

When the alt is not working does the heater blower work? There is a contactor in the PCB that excites the alt and powers the heater blower motor. Also check the voltage at the IGN terminal on the reg, it should be the same as battery voltage.

I think your compressor is fine, go ahead and try feeding it 24V to one wire with the other grounded and see if the compressor comes on. 19 ohms sounds about right, IIRC the 12V clutches pulled about 3A, so the 1.3A calculated at 28V sounds about right. I would look real hard at that breaker...

Sorry after re-reading your post I would think you do have a fried component, it looks like the breaker was too large or defective and did not protect the system :(

I do not mean to sound condescending but you should have changed ALL fluids and filters before ever trying to start your truck. Driving without doing that could cost you BIG bucks Use DEX III in the steering and transfer case, DEXIII or VI in the trans. EDIT, that is the very first thing I do...

If the AC was on then you likely shorted out the compressor clutch wire at least momentarily to ground, hopefully there is a fuse in the compressor circuit otherwise you likely fried one of the components that feeds the clutch, Yes a schematic would be very helpful, sorry can't help there. One...

Try shorting S and T in the diag port and see if it cranks, ign off.

As far as the transfer case there are no detents in the HMMWV transfer case shifter, it relies 100% on the detents in the transfer case to keep it in "gear", so precision adjustment of the shifter is not necessary. So unless something is moving so much that it is knocking the transfer case out...

If it seems to shift normally and you do not have any codes I would be doubtful it is a TPS issue, even if the TPS was causing the TC to lock and unlock it should not shudder, the shudder is the TC clutch slipping, it is actually possible the wrong fluid could cause this.

Take pictures of the sediment in the pan before you clean it.

I do not see a 24V-12V converter only a fuse panel, what alternator do you have and how many amps at 12V do you expect to pull?

I put the DuraVee in the shop for its annual service which includes draining all the hubs and differentials and inspecting the magnetic drain plugs. Nothing was found but the normal "mud" but no detectable particulate matter large enough to be detected with ones finger tips. So for all the...