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Sounds to me like your batteries were marginal and the low voltage damaged the starter. That has happened to me. Low voltage means too high current(amps) and that fries starters. Now that you have new batteries, the new starter should spin that engine.

antennaclimber, I think I know what you mean, but you said that no resistance = open circuit. If the circuit has no resistance as in closed circuit the wait light won't come on. High resistance the wait light will stay on.

Is it a good guess that the temp sensor is bad because the temp sensor is not showing any resistance when it is plugged in and the engine is cold? I will know tomorrow because will pick up the one I ordered from Napa.

I know the basic operation, but don't understand what is going on when something goes bad. Why does the wait light stay on with the temp sensor removed? I have another truck that has manual glow plugs and the wait light goes off on on randomly(GP card removed) as you're driving. Things like that...

My truck was starting correctly, but now I don't get a wait light and no power to the glow plugs. I removed the connection to the temp sensor and I do get the wait light that stays on, but still no power to the glow plugs. I know the temp sensor tells the system to activate when cold and not...

When it is running rough how does the tailpipe look? I would check the air filter. Also when it is running bad will it rev up at all?

The reason I asked how that front posi works in snow is I have a dodge 2wd with rear posi and after stopping in just a dusting the front brakes held but the rear kept turning, and would have taken me right off the road. Granted my idle is set a little high but posi-traction makes control...

Skinny, How do those lockers work in the snow?

I would consider eliminating the resister and running 12 volts to the relay from the terminal block on the other side of the resister. If you have a poor connection or a bad glow plug the resister will not lower the voltage to 12 volts and give too much voltage to the remainder of your glow...

I had starter bolts break off, but the piece that is left up in there is not under stress and should just spin out in less than a minute of work. Use an ice pick or something similar, catch an edge of the broken piece. If the threads are damaged by drilling you have a bigger job, much bigger.

I had the thought that the takeoffs were bad too, but wouldn't the dash light just stay on if that were the case? I don't understand what turns the light on and off. If the alternator is charging the light must go out, but it also must come on with the key. I looked at the TM and I couldn't...

Update...I'm now back to the No.1 alternator. The alternator light started to come on dimly and eventually it stayed on all the time and before I took it off it would get brighter if I reved up the engine. I figured that the alternator was bad and found 2 takeoffs for sale. I put one of them on...

Replacing the housing is a tough one as it must be CUCV specific. Thanks to both of you for the ideas! I really like the zip tie idea because I won't have to scrounge for something to cover the screw and it will be more flexible where I can put the screw by adjusting the size of the loop.

The tiny cable runs over a plastic pin that is located on the lower right area of the plastic dash, it has broke off. Anyone have a good repair for this, so the shift indicator will work. Thanks

Thanks Guys, I found the heater fuse and it was burnt. I replaced it and the light comes on and goes out when the engine starts. I haven't checked the alt output yet but I think it's fixed.

Which one covers the heater? I couldn't find one labeled for the heater, but I checked them all and they appear good. The heater fan doesn't work. There are open slots for a fuse.... possibly I'm missing that fuse. I'm going to look for a wiring diagram, but it really is hard to search on this...

I'm still stuck on what to do with this alternator. The alternator lights that comes on when the key is first turned on before the engine turns over... what controls the light coming on? When the alternator is energized by the power flowing thru the light and as the alternator begins charging...

I've looked here at the sticky's and the TM but can't find any answers so I'm asking for help. I think my alternator is good, it charges the battery. I can't get a light at start up on alt #1. There is power to the #1 alt with the key off. There is no power to the exciter wire key on or off...

The rope was stuck solid up top in my crank too. I used the heaviest weed eater cord I could find(155) cut it so it had a blade tip and put it in a electric drill and ran it up in there. I had to sharpen it up a few times, but it cleaned out that old rope.

I bought a multifuel and the can was about half full of water, talk about heavy. The engine was for parts.