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Don't forget to use your Kelvin Bridge!

Here's a link to the TM page you want... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/all-the-tms-you-need-to-work-on-the-mep-002a.155935/

FYI, the manuals are all available at the top of this web page in the "TM" area, just follow through till you find the 002 or 003 It is physically impossible for the ACTUAL frequency to drop as engine RPM increases. If you are judging it by your Hz meter on the generator, your frequency...

Also, give us a run down of what you have checked / tried so far. That will help us determine if you have an issue with the governor / fuel delivery / etc.

You don't want to know how many mast clamps, cable reel holders, jerry can mounts and fire extinguisher mounts I've chucked over the years! Was letting them pile up, but never found a viable use for much of it so eventually scrapped a lot of it.

Once 2-10 are removed just bang the bottom of the pump on a block of wood and the plunger should drop out of the center "Tube" if I recall, but it's probably gummed up in there, so you may have to soak it in acetone / carb cleaner first. It's just a metal slug that vibrates back and forth within...

Definitely sounds gummed up to me. Take it apart and clean everything and reassemble and should be good. Pay close attention to #9 and the downward tip of #11, those are check balls and need to move freely and seal properly in order for it to pump fuel. Give it 24V and it should click rapidly...

To your original question, YES the tie bar is the L0 / Ground bonding strip. Remove it and run a 4 wire feed to your main panel / disconnect switch in order to maintain a single point ground connection at your main panel.

Agree with Guy, take it off and see if you can get some lubricant into the end near the knob. Since that area is always exposed to the weather, it's not uncommon for them to sometimes get frozen up.

Well, keep a close eye on the voltage output. In my experience when the voltage goes up to 320, that typically means one or more of the 3 transistors on the VR is going bad. In the past I would normally replace all 3 transistors, but now @kloppk offers a sweet replacement VR that drops right...

Definitely good to hear you have it running good again. As CB said, I have to wonder if bending the arm is compensating for something else being out of whack. Reason I say that is 1) there's little chance that the arm got bent while in use in your possession and 2) one of the specific pictures I...

LITD is correct that the fitting on the outer gen enclosure is 1/2" NPT. The confusion might be due to a couple factors, the holes in the engine itself are 3/8" NPT threads and the 002/003 series machines are 3/4" NPT threads. Now, to add to the confusion... EVERY trailer mounted 802 and 803 I...

Will the contactor function if you push up on the switch and hold it up? Or will it not work at all? Also, are you verifying the contactor functioning by checking for power output at the lugs or looking for the green light to illuminate? I'm not sure what you mean above by "contactor held open"

I'm having a little bit of difficulty following you, perhaps due to the lack of punctuation etc., but regardless, have you tested the contactor itself to verify it works before going any further with testing the wiring? I'm not following exactly how you are testing, but the contactor circuit...

Nice job on the pin. Did you put a little gasket maker on it to prevent an oil leak?

The TM says "Smooth side" towards the governor flyball cover. By smooth side I believe they mean the curved side, as that would minimize any friction.

When it comes to degreasing anything.... Hot water / steam ( even relatively low pressure ) will do 10X better than the strongest high pressure washer using cold water and any cleaner you can throw at it. I use an electric steam cleaner that probably only produces 1500 psi and really don't need...

Jeeze, can't believe still no smoking gun! as C.B mentioned, make sure the lever arm is moving freely and no slop anywhere. In it's current state the cover on the flyball assembly should be free to move smoothly in and out and should rotate smoothly. ( Although in operation the cover is held...

Do you happen to have an air hammer? I would also try hitting the puller bolt ( while tightened ) and / or the blower wheel hub with an air hammer and a blunt chisel. I've found that vibration can help loosen frozen parts better than brute force sometimes.

Jeeze, you're doing it right, but you seem to have a real stubborn one! I've never needed to add any heat and do it a similar way. Only difference is I made a small block of 1/2" tool steel with a 1/2" fine thread hole in the center and 2 holes for the grade 8 bolts, but otherwise same concept...