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Long term energy solutions will evolve - it will take a while, but things will work out. That is what this country does best! Lee in Alaska

Your right! A sharp truck. Lee in Alaska

Probably its heavy enough. I use a different style that is used on heavy equipment. It can be mounted through a panel. If you use the fusible link in the one shown, it will still drain things. Lee in Alaska

Its still clean - they haven't tried it yet. Lee in Alaska

When I have problems like that, I patiently wait for winter. Let it freeze, then pour the oil off. Lee in Alaska

Sometimes on start-up, the heater will accumulate fuel in the combustion chamber. When it startes, there will be an abnormal "rich" condition for a while, till it gets up to temperature, and cleans out. Another situation, that creates extra smoke, is less then adequate, combustable air, due to...

If your prone to pulling axles (and I am not!), the axle caps would be good to keep the housings clean inside. Besides, some of those axles are hard to get out - break/ding, a couple of studs, and by the time you replace them, you haven't saved anything. One ting is for sure though - it will be...

Some States, but not all, are actually 14' - they have changed in recent years. You might want to check that! Lee in Alaska

Some States, but not all, are actually 14' - they have changed in recent years. You might want to check that! Lee in Alaska

RE: recoat I don't think you can repair with out using the "mixed' color, but yes, you can just do a dab with the artist brush, then shoot the clear. I think that the ease of repairs, is why they went to clear coating. Its real easy to get a good job, with a uniform gloss. Lee in Alaska

Weld it! Its not structural! Is there lube behind it? There isn't any in it. Is there a gasket sealing surface? That would make a little difference, on how I would do it. If there is a sealing surface behind it, then take the front plate off, clean/straighten everything, use stick aluminum...

RE: recoat If you re-coat within 24 hours, your don't have to sand. If you have any repairs to do, ie., fix runs, stuck flies, fix them, then shoot the clear. Lee in Alaska

Sharp truck. I doubt that you will have trouble with "overloads". Lee in Alaska

You might not be able to get that measurement, unless some one is holding the steering wheel against the stops, while the measurement is taken. It still might be hard to do, unless the weight is off the axle (its jacked up). Lee in Alaska

Tough luck! Sorry to hear that!. Must be a story behind it. Sometimes that is when you learn the most.! Lee in Alaska

Like Will said: drill as much out as you can, then put a heat gun on it for a half hour, or so. In fact, if your going to re-paint, you can get more aggressive then that. That heat gun will dry things out. Then a long chisel, and cave the pieces inward. Lee in Alaska

I 2nd that one Smitty! Lee in Alaska

The fenders are high & sling mud forward - most of it goes through those holes! Lee in Alaska

I was thinking of the 1951 M37 that I have had since along about 1970. It has many of the same drive train components, or you can distinctly see the heritage. The engine - seems like it was 1942 (some where in there), that it came out & ran way up till the "Slant 6", replaced it. It wasn't...

I always thought those were really neat. Dodge had a swell name for the series too "Power Wagon". They had the perfect drive train, to apply all the power the little flat head would produce. It wasn't fast - didn't need to be, but you would get there. Lee in Alaska