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Out of curiosity have you tried unplugging the main fuel pump, to see if the pump itself is causing a voltage issue? I think you may want to try to find the source of the problem by progressively removing items from the circuit until the issue stops.

I think you may have a slightly different issue with the governor / rack assembly. Your prognosis is good, but if I recall, the springs on the rack only provide OPENING force. To close down the fuel pumps the connection is a lever without springs. Look in the attached picture and my recollection...

Have you load tested the machine yet? It definitely sounds like either the internal rack is not moving correctly ( unlikely due to the way the linkage works ) Or the pump pins are either not in the rack's slots correctly, or not adjusted correctly. Are the fuel inlet lines on all your pumps...

Not to side track you away from the solenoid voltage issue, but if you wire the solenoid up ( or even remove it ) and it still won't even smoke out the pipe there are other things going on. Couple questions are: Do you hear the loud click of the glow plug solenoid when you turn S1 to the left...

Correct, group 24 fits pretty good. The originals were 6TL which were essentially a cube rather than a rectangle. You can still get them from several places but it will be a special order and they can be pricey. Although my commercial price at O-Riley's was about $200 last time I checked, so not...

Ah, ok sorry about that. I missed the damaged G17 and thought you were replacing it because you thought it was clogged/dirty. Now I see the light!

Ok, so when you test the 2 connections on the solenoid itself you are getting continuity, meaning the coil in the solenoid is good, which you also confirmed by testing the solenoid with 24V. Testing the wires I would expect you should get a tone ( continuity ) when testing from battery negative...

Bet you can almost smell VICTORY.... and it smells like Diesel!

Hey John, I assume you are finding that your solenoid doesn't pull in when you crank it? It will not pull up until you begin cranking, then it will hold there as long as the machine fires up, otherwise it will close down after several seconds. Also, if you have a break in the circuit for the...

I've got to show my son that grapple! He took an old 425 last year and outfitted it with an LPW2 engine. Converted it to 24V and has more lights and flashers on it than most emergency vehicles! He made forks, a weight block and a 2 stage trailer hitch for the 3 point, then he made a hydraulic...

I'm telling you... just backflush your old G-17. There's nothing in it besides a screen.... it just keeps large solids out of the pump.

Just be careful... says he used it for his well, doesn't say how long ago! The fuel pump is removed and looks like maybe the filter housing as well. Definitely a good buy at $2000, just don't expect to throw batteries in it and off you go.... I'm sure there's more secrets hiding in there than...

Looking great! Can't wait to hear you say "IT'S RUNNING!" Good luck!

I bought the G-17 not too long ago, so you may still be able to find it. ( think I got it from Rock Auto ) but be advised it is a strainer, not a filter so you should be able to remove it and just backflush with carb or brake cleaner.

Hello, I have some really nice 002's available. I also have spin on fuel and oil filter conversions that I machine myself available as well. Right now I have 3 002's for sale. All super low hour, Lowest is 7 hours, highest is 250 hours. All fully tested and serviced. Unfortunately none have the...

Here's my take on things.... In the first video I believe it is running on 1 cylinder. It is taking far too long for it to come up to speed and the smoke puffs look like a single cylinder firing not 2, and speed sounds fairly close to 1800. In the 2nd video it sounds smoother, but I still think...

Kurt, what is it that you need? A currently functional 002 or 003? if so I can probably provide you with something. I have a few of them here.

Keep turning the motor. "B" is for setting the valves. You want "PC" on the flywheel. Get it on the PC mark and then verify the position of the #1 intake cam lobe in the picture I posted. Most pumps will spin pretty easily with just 2 fingers to turn it. If it requires your whole hand to...

The frequency transducers on those machines are unreliable at best! Either replace the gage with a direct read analog or digital gage ( remove the transducer and chuck it ) Or if you like the original gage look, you can pick up a newer style transducer that LITD found for $12 on ebay that will...

You can find a lot of info on the main breaker here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-002a-and-003a-main-breaker.61257/page-4 But post #70 specifically talks about the additional 6 control wires you are talking about.