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Ah, Scooby Shep types faster than me! You are correct all the way around! It's a common failure, it's a nightmare to change and it's a mechanical issue inside the switch. Here's what I usually do: Remove the side cover off the AC box. Loosen the nuts on the ends of the rods holding the switch...

I also have a Clean Burn 1800 at our car lot. It works very well but I only use it a little bit since it's not my primary shop location. At my shop at home I'm using an oil fired Crown boiler with a Carlin burner to heat a radiant floor system. After Initial thoughts of buying another used Clean...

FYI, I had the same issue a year or 2 ago. Threw in one of Kurt's controllers ( and after a little help from Kurt ) problem solved. I would suggest verifying the adjustment on the control rods per the TM instructions first. If they are all correct, replace the controller.

Nice update... I almost soiled myself when I saw the hours and price of your Mep-803A #1 ! Was that auction of private party sale?

If you want OEM line look on ebay for 3.5mm diesel return hose. Get enough to replace the whole thing all the way back to the tank.

Easiest way is to either remove one of the wires from the fuel solenoid that pushes down on the IP linkage / lever.

Crypto Mining eh.? Those solar panels powering you computer fans I presume!

These days due to the rising cost of an IP Its best to just remove the pump. It will tolerate about ZERO amount of rotation if its frozen. OR, IF you have an Ambac M50 pump you could remove the fuel line from the filter assy. raise it up above the level of the IP and fill it with acetone...

Ok, "PC" is the timing mark you use to align the engine with to install and time the IP. PC stands for Port Closing and is marked on the flywheel and can be seen through the round hole where the timing pointer is, but don't worry about that just yet. Remove the IP and clamp the mounting flange...

Best thing about this forum is that the the word "Bother" was removed from pretty much everyone's vocabulary the day they joined. No matter the time, the problem, whatever.... someone is always right there to lend a hand, give advice, anything they can offer up to help complete strangers! It's...

Might be worthwhile to just remove the IP to be sure, while working on the pistons. I know you can't put it at "PC" mark beforehand, but it's easy to retime it later, if the IP has to be removed without setting it at PC first.

Correct, I meant the round louvered panel on the bearing end of generator with 4 bolts, loosen and turn. Should give you better visibility inside the cast end cover. Maybe see if the bearing seems OK, not sure if you can tell much with the cover on, but look for signs of ground metal dust etc...

Always make sure your Deaf, Dumb and Blind Kid plays a mean Pin-Ball! , not that it will help him guide you back, but maybe he can provide musical entertainment while you struggle with the hitch?? rofl

No, it won't kill the output, but probably isn't a very good idea. I'm not 100% positive but I thought I read that running without batteries can damage your DC charging circuit. I would double check before doing it... but, I have a hunch you already did and now have an AC output problem?? If so...

Probably start by inspecting the generator area where it meets the engine's bellhousing. Check the screen covering the access openings for the internal gen head bolts. Look inside the openings, you will see an aluminum ring with curved fins. Look for pairs of 1/4" bolts 2" apart attaching that...

Looking good! my only suggestion would be to change everything BEFORE you load test. No sense testing at full load with old oil and filters ( and risk an unforseen failure ) then changing everything! Best to test it with fresh fluids and filters!

The 803 tank is much deeper, you actually need an 8 1/2" sender ( 215mm ) so the 200mm is reasonably close, just over 1/2" short, but gets the job done just fine.

It holds just enough to read full on the dipstick! ;) Actually you are in the ballpark at about 3 - 3 1/2 qts, but I always fill from the larger 2 1/2 gallon jugs so I just keep adding till dipstick is satisfied and never paid much attention to how much it holds, especially since you don't...

Fresh fuel definitely wouldn't hurt, but don't forget to circulate all the old fuel out of the water separator and filter. If you think it's low compression, try starting it again and watching your oil pressure. See if it pegs the gage up over 80psi. If so, your oil pressure relief may be stuck...

Yea, I had a M1061 that came with (2) 003 AASK units and the frame from a radio antenna rig ( I think ) Towed it home from Long Island NY with a friend's dually and no brakes.... ( took the ferry across to CT. ) was a whole lot of fun without brakes! Awesome trailer IF you have a big truck to...