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Considering the best price I have found on these tires is the same for 1-2-4 or 5 tires shipped per tire I decided to just get one and see what they looked like. So here is my first impressions and some specs compared to the BFGs They are a little more aggressive than the pictures led me to...

You folks do know this is a 3 year old thread yes?

The old boxes were pretty stupid and did not care about much but the new smart start box may see you have missing/bad glow plugs (not enough current) RWH should have the answer to that as he has dealt with many smart start issues.

Looking at the instructions it does look like you will need a digital speed input. You will likely need a pass through digital adapter, not sure which one, again hopefully someone will chime in. Maybe this one...

The 6L80 actually has a TCM built into the valve body, it has a speed sensor internal to the transmission, the TCI controller actually just takes the place of the ECM which had the inputs for RPM and TPS to manage the engine and communicated with the TCM, totally different animals.

My controller is completely different but there are some folks on here that have used the EZ-TCU, hopefully they can be of some assistance. All the TCI for the 6L80 needed was an RPM and a TPS signal, have you played with the TPS settings?

I do not think a 6L80 was ever put in a HMMWV from the factory. (I did though) It should be a 4L80E Here is the troubleshooting guide The first thing you need to do is check the codes, second measure the TPS voltage.

Well today looked like the last day for a while that I could take the DuraVee to the beach, as usual I got a pre-dawn ride on the ferry and then breakfast at the best restaurant on the island, 4 eggs, 4 pancakes, steak, 2 sausage patties, two pieces of toast and a large tea in a to-go cup...

The start circuit goes through the "box" Use a test light and see is the signal is getting in and out of the box. Also make sure the connectors are good and tight.

Welcome to the SS forums?

Well it is ether leaking or not, yes you have to fix leaking..............

Mine has no muffler can hardly tell the difference, defiantly not loud. You do not want to terminate the exhaust under the truck.

I think I would just live with 7 good glow plugs before getting to the point I had to pull the heads, they only affect the first couple minutes of operation.

So you are saying even though it will not shift you are not able to get any codes, only the twelve flashes?

That fluid can cause issues, you can replace the seal without going into the trans (get youtube certified) Also clean both sides trans and cable with contact cleaner. This would not have any effect on testing with the TCM disconnected however...

There is no reason that pulley should fail, I have had no issues with mine at all, it ether did not get tightened enough or the shaft was damaged the first time it was put on loose.

I already have two alternators, one 12V one 24V. But because I want to use 2 6TL AGM batteries I am going to go to a 12-24V inverter and two 12V alternators.

There is a bolt behind the inst. panel going through the firewall, it needs to be cleaned up on both sides as there are also wires connected on the engine side also.

It really should not, you have some strange symptoms. What codes are you getting now, if it is not shifting into 3rd or 4th it should have some codes. Have you checked the trans end of the cable (pass through connector) for fluid? If you remove the connector from the TCM (J1) it should drive in...

I went down yesterday and filed a SF-97 to get a title, they charged me the customary 6.25% tax on the $2000 purchase price. GP had already charged me the 6.25% on the entire cost including the auction fee and some other taxes that motor vehicles are not supposed to be charged as in county and...