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What happened?? Did I stick my response in the wrong thread? God, what a dope! Now to reply to the correct thread! How badly did you damage the brass washer? Can you sand it flat with a piece of glass and some 220 grit paper? If it is too far gone you'll have to replace it. As long as your...

Seen similar generic solenoids, but never used one, only originals from Woodward. If the plunger end is something that can be adapted to fit the linkage bar I would imagine it should work. If not, possibly machine the plunger ( slot and thru-hole ) to fit the linkage??

So you are having trouble removing the entire assembly out of the housing after removing the throttle lever and the 4 cap screws? If so, please verify from the ID tag if you have an Ambac M-50 or an American Bosch PSU injection pump. If you have a PSU there is a large flat head screw sticking...

Can you clarify exactly what is happening? It sounds like you have power at the panel since you say you turn the switch slow and allow the fuel pump to run for a while?? If that is true then you issue is at or down stream of the S1 start switch, not the e-stop, CB1 or anything prior to the S1...

Personally I can feel myself regressing backwards lately.... I've probably had 80-90 machines over the last 5 years and had everything from 5 hour units to 4000 hour units. Units that fire right up and those with seized engines. Each time I get a really nice one I say "I'm keeping it for...

Start with Guy's suggestion to open the tank and verify fuel level. If there is fuel, remove the rear cover to access the tank area. Remove the dual float assembly for the aux. pump and low fuel. It will have 2 red and 2 black wires in a single plug. Take it out of the tank and manually...

To add a little bit more info to Chris' post above, while he was here in RI we swapped out both the control cube and AC reconnection box with no change. This is also what led us to both feel that the previous post about the rotating diodes being the problem were most likely correct. At this...

So on your 2nd attempt to use the machine will it crank over normally but will not start up? Or does it not even turn over at all? Also, are you saying it will eventually start back up if you wait a day or more before trying to restart it?

Can you give us more details as far as exactly what is happening when you attempt to start it? Also give us indications as to how long it has to sit before if becomes inoperative. Also by "turn on" I assume you mean the starting of the engine and not activation of the circuit interruptor?

Your best bet is to ditch the float arm sending unit and use the Stainless Marine type units discussed above. It bolts right in and works perfectly. The 802 takes a 5.5" long unit and the 803 needs an 8.5" However, if you do a little research here you will find several other posts about these...

I've only used PRI-D and haven't had any issues, but I'm in New England.... I can say for sure that new low sulfur fuel seems to be no where near as good for long term storage as older stuff, but other than additives there probably isn't any way around it.

When you cap the ports, make sure you remove the brass plugs from your old pump and put them into the ports of the new pump, don't just use the caps, that won't work. The cap doesn't do the sealing, it simply forces the tapered brass plugs into the holes to seal them off.

Keep in mind that one of the biggest problems with those pumps is not that the don't run, but rather the check valves get stuck open or closed. These are very simple pumps to disassemble and clean if they get messed up. If either one of the check valves gets stuck the pump will not work, and if...

Got a trash can full of pretty much everything under 2' but I have to admit it's probably not the greatest idea as everything on the bottom gets lost and forgotten about. for larger stuff I got a metro cart rack from work that is great for sheet goods in the center, heavy plate etc. on a bottom...

I'm thinking you may not want to know the price... NEW, but... many of them have sold at auction really cheap, sometimes as little as $0.50 per gallon of capacity, often times with a dispensing pump and filter setup included. Some even end with no bids at all. I'm thinking the issue is probably...

Wow, yea, wonder how I messed that up! Sorry about that, I confused you with another SS member ( a bit closer than TN ) with the same problem on one of his machines. Maybe I should stop reading this forum late at night and go to bed instead!

Swapping out the entire AC reconnect box is much easier than wrestling with the wires through the CVT to the switch, but for what they want for one you can buy another whole parts machine cheaper. Chris, if you want to verify the AC reconnect box components are the only issue, when you come up...

When you checked the voltage, where did you pull your DC- from? You need to test from the block to the plugs. I once had a similar issue where I had 24V when probing from the glow plugs to the main terminal block ground screws inside the control panel, but upon closer inspection I only had...

There are a few aftermarket options out there with drain valves on them, but I don't recall ever seeing one with the side outlet for the drain hose. All the ones I have seen just have a petcock on the bottom with no place to attach a hose. The original style should be perfectly fine to use...

You should be able to easily solder up that crack without removing the radiator, but if you prefer to send it out, any radiator shop will solder and pressure test it pretty cheap.