Search results

Poke around on the rockcrawling sites, you may find someone with a DRW Dana 60 looking to convert over. Win win for both parties.

I'm not sure how we drew a conclusion that it has to be kingpin related. Sure, someone that has DW and replaces the kingpins which eliminates the DW could draw that conclusion. Regardless of what that explanation is trying to get at, DW can occur from any frontend component that is worn out and...

I would consult the TM on how to check. It's been awhile since I've done a kingpin axle and my brain is overloaded with other more important useless information about airplanes, boats, beer, and women. Wait...scratch women...

Try rotating front to back, you may have a bad tire. It will spin balance up fine but loaded with vehicle weight it will show up.

Dana 60 axles are garbage. Please send your front axle to me and I will see that it gets a proper burial!

Keep in mind that unless your truck has fairly new springs or you know they were replaced at some point with a record...you more than likely have the originals. That means 30 years of sag and poor ride built right in to every set. Putting in 2" springs will probably give you really good results...

I would think that a simple momentary contact switch to ground on the left side of the dash would be easy. That way you can give it glow while cranking over. Unless you have two right arms... Is your system not working correctly? I wouldn't say the system is poorly designed or troublesome, just...

This is so close to being a great girlfriend quote... Anyone have any tips for freeing up the vice that comes with the SECM box? I was able to spin the "buttress thread" or whatever term you want to call the worm gear. The rest of the vice is frozen solid. Should I just give it a good whack...

I personally would take measurements and know exactly what you need. First, you'd be amazed at how many differences there are across similar trucks. A GM dealer once told me my 87' K5 had a half dozen diff yoke options. Even with a VIN, 3 were still available to choose from. Second, if you are...

For a D60 front shaft ujoint, should be a 1480 For the driveshaft diff end, should be a 1350 For the driveshaft, I would recommend measuring since these things are so old. Lots of hands in the cookie jar... Here is a quick reference chart to measure...

Who rebuilt the IP?

Regardless of whether you choose to run the OEM mechanical LP or an electric one, you still are having the issues so I would not focus there. Have you dropped the tank to look at the fuel sock? I would start there and work my way forward. I'm assuming you have changed fuel filters as well...

8 psi sounds like enough to get things going and running without issues. If fuel is going into the IP with pressure, my next area to check would be if the IP solenoid is clicking on. Without it, no fuel is going to be delivered to the high pressure lines. I'm going to back up a minute here...

Looks like a good score! Since you want to travel on the road long distances, the gears will really help. Who cares if it doesn't have a Detroit, that is a fairly inexpensive and easy install to correct if they removed it. Much easier than regearing. Make sure it does have the original running...

What does freezing it do? I understand freezing components like bearings and other press fit stuff. I've never tried it with a fuel pushrod. Does it stick in the block because of the large temperature differential?

I know it is new but maybe the outlet check valve on the IP is plugged?

I don't understand why everyone has such trouble with the pushrod. You may need to bump the engine over if the assembly is difficult. I think the hardest part is getting the threaded hard line on. I agree, get it started first because it is near impossible if the pump is bolted down tight...

Even though it is cool to have it as a multipurpose tool, I agree in that you will probably be better off using the diesel fuel spent to directly heat a dwelling than burn it in a 6.2 to split wood. I think a hydro PTO is probably better off being a short term item like for a dump body or winch...

I would put the correct one in rather than convert the whole truck to 12v...lots of good things about the 24v system. Mainly is it retains value since most 12v conversions are hacked and it tends to crank very strong with the stock 24v system. The biggest one is that the TM's still apply and...

If the engine is still cranking slow, I would be looking at voltage tests and maybe a new (I prefer to rebuild the OEM) starter. Diesels are pretty cranky (get it...) when it comes to turn over speed. You may want to look into cracking some high pressure fuel lines to see if anything is coming out.