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Be careful as Tygon is not rated for the heat in the engine bay. I used it on my fuel tank lines but standard rubber hose for engine bay stuff.

There are only a handful of manufacturers that actually make a DOT approved beadlock...the list gets even smaller when you are looking for an alloy rim. I wouldn't hesitate to run a custom offset steel wheel if the person doing the work has a good reputation. Yes you have modified a DOT approved...

Depends on what state you live...Maine does not allow any wheel spacers. Are they unsafe, not really. I ran spacers on my Toyota crawler with heavy offset 37's. I never had a problem. I also checked my wheel torque every 1,000 miles.

Since I live in New England and April brought extreme hot and cold weeks when my kerosene tank was very low, I ran out twice because I simply didn't add enough or order 100 gallons again. So I wanted a way to bring fuel home with me to top the house off. I also wanted to add capacity to my truck...

The lock up converter really is the big sell here, without it the auto trans is a power/fuel hog when you are trying to go for economy. Ever think of an NV4500 swap?

I would highly suggest after you fix your hubs to change your diff fluid and put in limited slip additive. More than likely you made that Trac Lok very upset.

Unless you absolutely need to get away from electronic controls, I think what you are describing would be a good candidate for a 4L80E swap instead of a GV overdrive. The nice thing about the GV unit is that you can manually control everything and retain the non electronic TH400. All of that has...

I think the OP was not taking into consideration a very sloppy TH400 torque converter when doing RPM calculations. It's a non-lockup so you will probably add 300 ish rpm's to your equation.

Sounds like a sticky hub or something adding drag/acceleration to a front wheel. Remember you have an LSD for a front diff. When I drive mine hubs locked in 2HI it does have lots of steering wheel feedback.

Forget the gaskets, with a drain plug for easy service I would use a quality RTV. Seems like no matter what gasket you use, it will always drip or wick out somewhere. With RTV after it dries, you could pull the bolts out and it will still stay on leak free. It just makes a time consuming mess if...

I don't know how there can be naysayers when this stuff happens??? It's a much needed upgrade. Even though you were stuck on the side of the road, you are very lucky something more catastrophic did not happen.

Keep on truckin'

I personally like the 91' K30 4x4...what is considered to be the unicorn of fourwheel drive Chevy trucks. 4L80E transmission mated to an NP205...yes please!

Won't matter what color it is when one of those 10-bolt cross shafts blows through it... :) I'd go with black so it doesn't stand out. Nice looking rig!

Sounds like the direct/reverse clutch is failing. I would service the fluid and filter, pay very close attention to the level adjustment. If that doesn't solve it, you will have to tear down and rebuild it. I'm not too familiar with rebuilding a TH400 but you could invest in a pressure gauge...

Anyone using HMMWV take-outs or crate engines you see scattered on Ebay? Seems like you can find one for around $1200 every time I log on.

Do not forget with the age of these vehicles that a majority of the time someone has hacked something together. I doubt the military would or someone that has purchased one and kept it original. Usually when people post up of "I had my local mechanic fix this..." it means the truck had some...

Never knew the 700R4 was an option on the 3/4 ton model. Always thought they got the TH400 until 91' when that was the only year for a 4L80E in the straight axle body style. Keep a build thread...that's a nice rig!

I think you may have a TH400 and not a 700R4 too.

Nice workhorse...I'm jealous