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Not saying I'm right, but I heard mice just don't like to chew steel wool, so you can use it to block openings. I've used it for that and haven't found dead mice around.

They can be erratic if very far from 60. As I slowly speed my 003A up from its lowest engine speed, the frequency meter goes through a couple zero to full scale swings. Then as I get near 60 Hz it starts behaving normally.

If the jumper from L0 to 6 were in place, you'd certainly see a dead short, zero ohms, in 120V-only mode. I *think* you'd see an open circuit if the jumper were not in place. If there were any control circuit devices trying to get power between L0 and L1, they wouldn't work in 120V mode, so I...

Well, yes, except if you do use 120v-only mode, as far as I can see, without the jumper neither side of the 120 is referenced to ground or neutral, so they're floating. This is very non-standard. It means a 2-wire device that relies on a polarized plug to keep 120 and neutral in the right...

I finally took the time to look at this jumper, L0 to terminal 6, and what it does. It appears that it simply ties L0 to L1 in the single phase mode. In both the 3-phase mode and the 120/240 single phase mode, L0 is already tied to terminal 6, so the jumper does nothing in those modes. In...

There's a sticky thread that has a lot of information that could help you. Page 3 has a good illustration of the neutral-ground bonging wire location on the 002A/003A. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?40290-MEP-003A-hook-up-question

Since the house is already grounded, you won't use a ground rod, but rather connect the generator's frame to the earth ground of the house. Also the generator's bonding wire from ground to neutral should be disconnected.

Thank you for that! I've been unclear as to whether that jumper has to be removed when the generator is not used for 120V-only power, and I never tried to sort through the 12 wires and three configurations to figure it out.

As in a similar recent thread, I wonder if this is caused by the jumper added to the reconnect switch, described in the TM to eliminate a "double fault". Edit: The similar thread was also started by Wolfe, on the smokstak board: http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?p=966295#post966295...

Here you go, Jimc: http://theoldmotor.com/?p=104744

That's easy to fix. :grin:

I assume you have the meter switch in the correct position for reading single phase when in single phase mode.

That could be a very good suggestion, depending on bsorcs' plans for the future. Another thought is that when it's running just the saw, the 003A's breaker is really not going to give much protection. Ideally you'd have a separate 20A breaker to the saw.

Misunderstood post, never mind.

From the spec you posted, it looks like the motor will draw about six amps per phase when putting out its rated power. 12/4 should be plenty. Take a look at this chart: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/three-phase-circuit-wiring-d_737.html

Huh, the one I was talking about wasn't Christmas Eve, it was January 25th, 2000. The storm dropped a very heavy, but narrow band of snow as it went north through here. 50 miles east at lake Gaston it was only about 10". Where you are it may have been only a light snow or nothing at all. I...

I was here for that one, in January of 2000. I awoke to 20" and it was still coming down. It stayed below freezing for a week. Our power was out for several days and I ran a gasoline Onan in a motor home to keep the place going. Neighbors had no well water, and came to my house to fill...

As for your question about why the charge voltage was higher with load, it was probably a function of time, rather than load. If the batteries were not fully charged initially, they would have done a pretty good job of regulating the charge voltage, since the alternator puts out only a few...

Right Jim. I'm positive that Ike's group 24s will work fine in the coldest of weather. That's what I have in my 003A, and in past decades I've put 24s to the test a few times in other applications.

Ike, agree with all, except I've had recent horrible experience buying electronic components from eBay. Specifically, there are counterfeit parts floating around, and you can't tell until you're really counting on one and it fails. I strongly recommend paying a couple bucks more to buy it from...