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DITTO with the gorilla guy🦍. Warranty and availability, over the counter at discount stores. Lasts just has long, a LOT easier on the wallet 💰& 6TL's too damm heavy. 🏋️‍♀️ Be nice to them.. They don't have 9 lives. PMCS, don't leave them dead or dry, over / under charged (float) and figure 5...

So... nice field expedient repair on the upper control arm. Next, I know a guy to fix the smoking and starting. Cough cough , CAMO

Me thinks your missing this panel with the parts for control and breaker feeding the TCM. GI Joe hi-jacked the panel ? CAMO

Cheap A$$ knock offs... the lamp housing will not bottom out in the buckets so the lamp housing sticks out about 1 1/2 +/-. Where did you get them ?? Maybe chineeeze dimensions? CAMO

Let's try this again.............. There are three wire making connections to the 60 amp units plus a ground (4). Ground - strap to a bolt or ?? mechanical to engine ?? wire # 3B High current output= 5A Larger 8 gauge Sense (control to turn on = 568 Smaller pig-tail off of 5A wire AC tap...

NO No no. I like the easy ones ? CAMO

If they are the 97 A / 97 B they are the tachometer pick up connection. Nothing to do with TCM input. Looking at the picture location & connectors, ME thinks :unsure: those wires are the Cold Advance Sensor connections. Look to the engine and I thinks you will find the other part where it...

And for all the good comments...Make darn sure the jack base has a darn good footing / base to earth connection. Side to side are worry point ... and I add front to back of pick point. When it GOES forward / backwards the top of lifting beam / post will take out your tail light, fender, grill...

There are three wire making connections to the 60 amp units plus a ground (4). Ground - strap to a bolt or ?? mechanical to engine ?? wire # 3B High current output= 5A Larger 8 gauge Sense (control to turn on = 568 Smaller pig-tail off of 5A wire AC tap (signal to control box) = 2A Smaller wire...

Yea... I had to reword the "DIS" thing... making a funny as I interpret the text / logic. This simple system is backwards logic to the way many think? The module is shot (your black wire to ground, a solid state part let the smoke out) or the low side of the solenoid coil shorted (internally)...

I am not so sure the explanation / theory is correct. :unsure: I might not grasp how the term engage or disengage is being use here. Tobash how does it work? HELP. If at any time the Cadillac valve solenoid is 24 volts energized, the fan is disengaged. This is part of the fail safe design...

Well that's one way to test the switch ?? :roll: Be CLEAR... Truck would not start... BUT would engage / crank over engine. Did it start / engine running ?? Here my thoughts. No magic bullet, quickie fix to chase your gremlin. Ground on battery remove , IMO points to power being supplied...

He's right on the swapped wires. A cold truck would start, but once warmed up to temperature, would shut down when the cold advance switch opened up. Would have to wait for temp to drop back to a cold start condition. The Packard connectors for cold start has the ribs on it. All of those...

If I understand the response to be "NO" as this is an important starting point with the crazy symptoms. Got a non runner , but got it running, wont turn off unless one pulls the 5A lead on the fuel cut off solenoid. Walking it back ... all the obvious connections stated, switch, boxes...

Did you ever have the truck working correctly? Got to start from a know starting point, CAMO

Ding Ding Ding.... Back to your corners. Time out............ I don't see the drawing showing the transmission TC circuit with the normally closed contacts for the #810A & 810B wires, the little round plug associated with the TC switch left side of the failing or troubled switch to align...

Not sure if this is BIG upgrade. With every pound per square inch (PSI) placed on the cooling system, the coolant's boiling point raises approximately 3°F. It's getting HOT in here... so take off all your _______ radiator caps? CAMO