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Every time I see another bobbed truck thread, this rings in my head, now it can ring in yours too!

I just checked my lines. Mine are the same as the TM picture. The top(radiator end) line has the oil sample port, then it goes down the the lowest port(on the filter housing). .

That looks really nice on that truck! It should be a very useful setup.

I'll try to look tomorrow. I meant to today but forgot. Heavy rain and snow here, not sure about tomorrow.

What I was wondering was, does it start correctly 99 out of 100 times? But that's not the case. You bought a new controller to get rid of the chatter(that you already had). I read these two posts as, you have a buzzing problem all the time, and it buzzes 66% longer with your new card...

Today, I reset the magneto mark(V), to align with the cam mark(V). This is where it was to begin with. I took a picture to show where it "snaps". The short red mark is where I was when I made the adjustment, based on what I had read elsewhere. It definitely runs better as it is in this...

Most of the air lines are copper and flared. No need for sealant.

That's an infraction... :jumpin:

All glycols produce acids in the presence of air (oxidants). The acids can reduce pH and cause corrosion. When the system pH drops below 7, rust will form on any ferrous metal, and nonferrous metals start to corrode. For HVAC applications, glycols are formulated with passivating and buffering...

"the Internet"! :roll:

Just pour some Bars Stop Leak into the air intake.

If a post need to be brought to the Admin/Moderators attention, you use the report a post tool.

Just to be clear, the pic Charlie posted above, is the opposite side(offset), from where I set the timing mark to get it to snap between 28 and 18 degrees.

Thanks for the replies. I will try to adjust the timing with a light, and see how much I can adjust it(either way). I think it runs a bit less responsive and seems to have less top end power. I may need to re time the mag and set the marks aligned. Before I disassembled it, it definitely...

Please allow me to use this great opportunity to share how useful the Tms can be. In this case, I simply looked at the parts manual(ends in P), and searched for buzzer(I have them saved on my computer and PDFs are easily search able). So here's a picture of it. And if you look at the...

He said fenders. Finders, that's his accent! He's from Indyaner.

This is the 5th thread you've started on this problem. Please continue one thread, so that the members have all the background info and know what you know so far. I'd take the advise, and buy a new PCB (get the right one).

The shaft is splined. Removal and installation is covered in TM 9-2320-260-20a.

Wholesale, retail, scrap, NOS? Buying or selling?

You mentioned that your original controller works 99% of the time. What do you mean exactly, by that? Why are you replacing it? I really suspect you have an issue that you have not diagnosed.