Search results

I find it hard to believe you would fry a 24v system by sending it 12v. I'd start with the fuseable links, as you'd have pulled more current through them than normal, but the other components, I doubt are bad.

You could pull the caps AND the axles from the rear. That way nothing will move except the bearings... but the rear axles will drip gear oil all over when you pull them out. Have a towel ready to wipe them down and you'll be fine.

Junkyardwarscrusher had some a while back rusty. Might try sending him a pm. If memory serves though, they are mpt rims.

Yup I was doing 60 through Louisville and an oilpan drain plug decided to secede from the union!

Everything. Id be more worried if it stopped leaking.

Make sure you tack weld the nuts to the bolts!

If your worried about the front wheels spinning, just pull the spline caps off. 3/4 socket n ratchet.

Send it on over, ill lug it around!

I have some sitting in the basement waiting for their number to come up, so they get installed. I collect a lot of parts that I am slow to install. Its so nice once I get them in though!

There is a "parts wanted" section here...

Have one big piece of Lexan formed to fit, no more "blind spots".

AHhhh, but it uses the air to push a diaphragm that actuates a master cyl. The m105 has juice brakes

I got a Wilton c2. After careful consideration, I decided to put it on my work bench. Too nice of a vise to have outside in the elements. I do have another I got for MUCH less $$ and is still a quality vise. I have it mounted to a hitch so I can use it in multiple vehicles. When not in use, I...

24v fuel burning coolant heater. Espar, Webasto, military-Southwind/Benmar, or Chinese-Snugger. Once the motor is warm it will start normally.

I think they used those in the m715. Might check on www.m715zone.com they would know whats available.

Wtf are you gonna weld to need .40 or .45 wire?! Unless its 1/4 or thicker youll just burn holes in it.

I contacted Parker when I got mine, ill see if I can dig up the info they sent in an email. I do remember they were made for the Bradley fighting machine and were over $1k each new.

See post #2: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?143476-How-to-remove-the-Fuel-Shutoff-Rod-on-the-IP

You just need to get that fuel lever freed up so it movez freely. Itll be fine after that.

I have some air tanks if your not worried about stainless, i also have the correct secondary fuel filters with correct gaskets. PM if interested.