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Ditto on what Tinstar said - the search feature, once you learn how to master the technique, will yield plenty of information on just about any subject relative to these trucks. But to help-out a new member, I will say that the best behind-the-bumper winch mount, in my opinion, is available...

Before you reinstall the reducer, let me know how far off your speedometer reading is and I will calculate which new driven gear you will need for accurate speedometer reading without the reducer.

Ditto on what Flush said. From what I am reading, your drive gear inside the transfer case could possibly be shot. I know it's a pain to get to and to see it, but you really need to remove the sleeve and inspect that drive gear as recommended in my earlier post. You can't get your head and...

Did you try connecting the cable directly to the transfer case without the adapter? I'm interested to know what your speedometer will do in that configuration. Try it and report back please.

That is the standard oil pan for the P400 engines. Heavy cast aluminum.

Since my last post I've gotten a lot done. Powertrain is bolted in place; aircraft pre-oiler is mounted where the OEM fuel filter was on the firewall; 24vdc relays are mounted and wired back to the dash switches, as well as powered from the 24v buss on the firewall, the pre-oiler pulls 4 amps...

These may help -

Thanks Karl for posting that. I'm going to order a set on Tuesday simply because mine are all crudded-up and I don't want to take the time to de-crud them. Edit: Just now ordered online and was pleasantly surprised to see they are offering a 15% Memorial Day Sale! Glad I didn't wait until...

If you need these 41-year-old lines your best bet will be to source them from one of the spare parts vendors. To my knowledge they are not available from GM already bent to shape. I feel sure John at Hillbilly Wizard can provide these in good serviceable used condition. Do you not already...

Is your last name McGyver?

Just following up on this. What sleeve do you have? The Yellow 28-tooth driven gear will require the GM 25512340 sleeve. As previously stated, I have one of these sleeves in my spare parts bin which you are welcome to if needed. It is new in the GM box. Let me know.

Holy Mackrel. Using 3.08 gears in the equation, you would need a Yellow 28 tooth driven gear without the reducer adapter that you removed. Is that what you said you had? If so, try using the Yellow driven gear without the reducer adapter and see how the speedometer reads. If you do not have...

Dang. Good catch. I stand corrected. Let me re-work the calculations. For some reason I was thinking the M1009's were running 3.73 gears.

I just looked and I have a new 25512340 sleeve in my spare parts bin which you are welcome to if you want it. All you will need will be the driven gear. If you plan to keep running your same tires & wheels I would get the light green 9774413 driven gear. If you change to larger tires in the...

OK, using the time-tested formula of "# of Drive Gear teeth X axle ratio X (20168 divided by tire diameter) divided by 1001 = # of Driven Gear teeth to use", I determined this: 15 (drive gear teeth) X 3.73 (M1009 rear axle ratio) x 616.99 (20168 divided by your tire diameter of 32.6875) divided...

Gimme a few minutes to run the equation with 33" tire. Are you sure your center of tire circumference is 33", or is that what you think it is? Nothing beats jacking up one front wheel and measuring the COT circumference with a tape measure.

Wow what a coincidence. You were born in Lexington KY and moved to Atlanta? I was born in Atlanta and moved to Paris, KY, just N.E. of Lexington. Actually I was born at Emory University Hospital in Decatur and was raised in Powder Springs in Cobb County. Went to McEachern High School, Class...

OK, here goes - This first photograph shows what the installed assembly should look like when it is clean and without the reducer. You will see that the sleeve has the raised numbers 40, 41, 42, & 43, which indicates that this particular sleeve is for driven gears with those tooth-counts...

It’s not rubbish, it’s science. First, clean the dang area so you can see what the heck you are doing. Then take the blasted reducer off and throw the thing in the trash. Then get a new speedometer cable and a new driven gear and put it all back together. I have both parts here so if you can’t...

Opps, sorry. Here is the TM page for the transmission cooler lines -