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If it's just a jumper - cut the wires off the connector and crimp them. No need to make this more complex.

It's all fundamentally web based - hover over the schematic link and the path to the image file pops up in the lower left of the window. ;)

Sadly what you are now beginning to realize is that you actually wanted an A1R truck (2004+) with a 370 HP Cat C7 and electronic throttle, cruise control, and all the other nice-to-haves. Best thing to do - find someone that wants what you have and then find an A1R. Trust me - it's the dream...

You are fundamentally correct. It's not a protector - it's literally controlling the whole system and has direct control over the compressor clutch so unless you get the transducers it's expecting and put them where it expects them - expect it to not function.

That's gonna be fun to figure out! The computer uses transducers and controls the clutch itself. Lovely. I would rip that off and rewire it as a trinary switch system. Otherwise call Red Dot and bend over till you can kiss the ground.

MME pulling the fuse to shut off a cranky ABS warning lamp....... Naw they would never do that. :rolleyes: Yeah we need to get you hooked up with WABCO software.....

Yes I can pull the diagram for that system. That's a later Gen II with the intelligent monitoring computer. I haven't installed one of those but it shouldn't be a huge deal.

Correct - just divide by two for the reduction delete.

But at what duty cycle? Also they are over $1k. Not really much cheaper per-amp than the Niehoff 260A in the surplus channels. Which tend to be about $2,500 on a Wednesday. And can find them a little cheaper if you look around and message some forum members, etc.

That is the pressure protection valve that limits the CTIS and radiator fan to only receive air when the wet tank is above 95 psi. Probably best to just replace it.

All of the Haldex RNT26 kits I have bought came with an instruction sheet.

Nope. There's an instruction sheet in the kit. You will have to make your own tool for removing the valve cages.

Agreed. Power study suggests you could get away with a 100A alternator that is at times pretty close to running at capacity..... On the other hand, the 260A in the same circumstances, will only be running at 1/3 to 1/2 it's rated capacity. Meaning it will run cooler and easily tolerate sending...

As a contrary to Ronmar - no disrespect intended or implied because there's plenty of ways to skin this cat and it's down to what you are personally comfortable with - I would point out that the 260A is the standard alternator used on all A1P2 trucks and I have no reason to believe it's any...

The HMMWV 200A is an option. But now your competing against not only FMTV owners, but also the whole HMMWV community for surplus. And they are designed to mount on the driver's side so mounting them on the FMTV is a dog's breakfast of bits and pieces and the regulator has to be remote...

It's larger in diameter and longer and requires a longer belt since it sits farther from the engine block. The 260A weighs 72 lbs. The 300A weighs 98 lbs. I think the 100A is around 50 lbs.

Oh yeah. Absolutely. You will have to space the shock tower out and put a window in the backside of it. I just installed one on a 2004.5 A1R (non coil over) truck and I have the same mount I on my personal truck. Same one I posted above. Fits the 260 and the 300.

The easiest option is to just replace the 100 with the 260 and be done with it. I've never seen or heard of a bad 260. They are built like tanks. You can carry a spare VR but that's about all you really need. And for an overland application - assuming you keep a large battery bank like the...

You could also use a couple Victron balancers. I use two of these for my house battery bank that is composed of four 12v batteries but my solar charges at 24v. These burn power off whichever battery is higher to bring them back into balance. You can stick them between any pair of 12v batteries...