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Good info, thanks for sharing. Adding the intake heater bus bar to my list of pm checks.

@GeneralDisorder what is you plan for gauging the second tank? I was planning to add a second stock gauge in the "empty" spot on the dash next to the original gauge, but since the A1R gauges go through the MMDC it isn't as straightforward as I'd hoped.

Yes, stock is 62,618 PPM with 395s and 3.90 gears, so with ecohubs you just halve it to 31,309 PPM.

@Primussucks thank you! I was hoping to hear that the driver's side could be done without pulling the whole bumper, it is mighty crowded under that side.

Cab bushings are on my to-do list, could you share the helpful tricks?

Yep, halve the pulses per mile for the speedometer if you have the stock 3.90 gears and 395/85R20 tires. The tachometer doesn't need to change.

The winning bid was just over $36k. Pretty high for an auction truck, but not a bad deal when you consider the cost of a similarly capable/equipped truck. It makes me feel like my truck is an appreciating asset haha.

Wow, you did the right thing to walk away. I wouldn't pay more than "parts truck" prices for a truck I couldn't inspect.

Plug and play - unscrew the old valve and screw in the new one.

Haha wow, I was just looking into these myself for the second tank I recently pulled from a parts truck. Our two trucks are going to wind up with a lot of parallels. I've been waffling between manual valves for reliability, and electronic valves for convenience/the ability to switch tanks on...

I bought one of these to replace a leaking valve, nice solid brass valve for half the cost of the NAPA one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076P8BCM9?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

Nice clean truck, it is interesting to see all the small differences between this one and the 2008 models. A lot of M1079s seem to get very little use, mine only had 300 miles on it when it was put up for surplus and when I got it there was paperwork inside it indicating that it had only been...

Dang, sorry you had issues, this is good info to know. I bought a spare valve from them this summer and it sure looked legitimate, I would have looked elsewhere had I known they were selling inferior knockoffs.

Super cool trucks, I wish I could justify getting another truck right now -- a couple just came up for auction in California: K-2358 truck 1 K-2358 truck 2

Do you still have the suspension kneeling cylinders/hardware? I have a clunking noise which I believe is coming from the kneeling hardware bouncing around on turns and bumps.

Nice, I just changed over to the same 5W-40 for the winter and have 15 gallons of Transynd sitting in my garage waiting to be swapped in. It took Amazon 3 tries to get me a (mostly intact) shipment of motor oil. The first two shipments weren't even deliverable, and the third box was delivered...

It should be easy to spot if you have one, as Ronmar said it is a big butterfly valve assembly just downstream from the turbo. Up/12 o'clock on the retarder switch is for activating the exhaust brake when idling, it simulates putting a load on the engine to help it warm up faster. Down/6...

So the "50,000 hour lifetime" Grote composite LED tail lights and turn signals on my truck all have significant issues with burnt out diodes after ~330 hours of operation. Are these Grote lights really that unreliable, or can other issues cause these to burn our prematurely? What are some...

I finally replaced the disintegrated rear bushings on my cab, the improvement in ride quality is much greater than I expected - that A1R front suspension is STIFF. Does anyone know what the correct torque specs are for the bushing through bolt?

What windows did you go with and are you happy with them? I've been eyeing the Tern Overland windows, but they sure cost a pretty penny.