Search results

Yes sir, it drops back into the green if I hold the rpm’s. I was thinking it sounds like a loose connection or perhaps a bad ground.

I decided to pull all the cut wiring apart and start over from scratch. tone tested each wire to its component and found that I connected 571 and 57B and at least one other incorrectly. got it all sorted and am now soldering them back together to make clean lines again. New issue: Voltage...

I am not clear on from what you are saying. The 54A->54B, you say it goes to the start box but that is not the case. There isn’t a 54B going to the start box on the inside where my wires were cut. I checked for continuity on 54B going to the solenoid and it is good.

Also to address the other questions from before there is zero voltage going to the glow plug wires so that is why I am going back to chasing wires.

Update, I left this alone for a weekend and am now back on it. I am trying to track down what wires should have constant power going to the start box. I don’t think this problem has to do with anything else other than wiring Would the master start switch have constant power? (11A/B) This...

Yes, next step will be to check voltage and then ohm out the plugs. There is a IP diode that was destroyed, burnt and cut in half. Would this have anything to do with it? What is this diode for?

Yes I meant glow plugs not injectors. Sorry

Guess that will be my next check.

If the glow plugs are all burnt out, could this cause the wait light to stay on?

Correct, it does not turn off at all once turned to the run position. It is a KDS box and KDS glow plug controller. I have tried Norton ones with the matching Norton Glow plug controller but still same symptoms. As far as I know the only thing that would do this is if the box is bad or if...

Yes the connector to the SSS box was cut and I have tone tested each individual wire using the schematic to find each end. originally I thought the same thing that perhaps I connected it wrong, perhaps to a ground but everything else is working as it should.

I haven’t checked the power to the glow plugs but I would think it would send power to the IP solenoid either way?

Hey Mogman it’s been a while. I have a XL blown up wiring logic schematic specifically for 300k+ SN 1167’s. I have not checked power to the 29C wire but everything else works. When the switch is turned to run, it lights up and stays on. I can crank it but no start and the light stays on...

1167 REVB for reference Truck had all the wires from the KDS SSS box cut in the cab (not the engine harness). Using a tone tester and wiring logic schematic I chased the wiring down to get them reconnected but so far I am not getting power to the IP solenoid even though there is continuity in...

Colt, do you still sell these?

I highly doubt they would give that out but feel free to Google Power Control Systems and send them an email asking. Maybe they will divulge. I got the info I was looking for after rephrasing the question twice.

After looking, analong and not finding, I contacted the Power Control Systems (PCS) manufacturer to get the exact info. The first letter denotes engine and the second denotes the production series by generation. Listed as first A identifying Turbo or first B being N/A. 2100-AA: turbo first...

There are cooling lines to deal with from the lower radiator pipe as well as the hard lines to the transfer case. It wouldn’t be too hard to make a 242 work as it is roughly the same foot print. The cooling lines for the 242 come off the transmission fluid lines so you will need the older stuff...

After looking through this bulletin, I am left still wanting for a more complete list. Is there a comprehensive IP number list? I have seen many more pump numbers used especially for 6.5T engines in the REV B series.