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They hit 125 then pop off pressure which is normal. Tanks read same the gauge +/- a pound or two. I verified with digital gauges that were a bit more precise. so there only being a pound or 2 difference I am ok with.

I made the electrical changes last year in August. It has been started and running once a week since then. Monday is when this issue popped up and had no idea where to even begin to look. Once again you guys are found to be a tremendous fountain of knowledge. The audible alarm has always come on...

Ideally, I think you are correct. Long term CTIS shouldn't be counted on for leaks. I haven't really looked at the tires to see if they did or did not have valve stems. Originally, I thought that is what the CTIS was for. Well, a year and half later, I have definitely learned a lot and can sit...

Definitely not a battery issue. They are fully charged and brand new batteries. Long story behind that one as well. I have created a 110 circuit with a 4 bank battery charger with desulphonator. I took out the NATO charging connector, and added a 110 male waterproof connector. Basically when I...

Great to hear from you again Ronmar. Anyway lots of questions and I have lots of answers so here we go. Correct, after the "CTIS Overspeed' Alarm which was going off since start up, I knew was a load of crap because I was parked and haven't moved the vehicle at all. I haven't had the time yet...

Will it still inflate tires without the controller?

Thank you to everyone for the invaluable information in helping me get a 1993 Stewart Stevenson up and running from a charging issue. Unfortunately, the time has come to pick everyone's brain yet again. Sitrep: While parked, I start the SS and it alarms out for CTIS Overspeed. It continues to...

I have been told by the chief that the more important issue next up the air hydraulic pump. It is blowing oil everywhere. If we operate it by hand (and just pump the living shit out of it) it doesn't leak all over the electrical connections for the LBCD. So that is how we are doing it for the...

OK I found the issue. The Voltage regulator was the culprit. One of the resistors inside went bad. Replaced the regulator and it is working fine now. Salty booger, but it is working as it should now. I have built a poor man's Kushmaul battery charger for the Stewart. Actually works pretty good...

It is a 3116.

You got a part number or where to buy the terminals that go under the yellow locks? Particularly the spade crimp on terminals that go here:

I am using both a DMM and an analog unit. That is the best I can do. The analog is showing me the fluctuations whereas the digital is only showing me that it is changing and hits P2P. I only wish I had an o scope. I cannot afford a decent one. LMAO.

I think that there maybe more going on here than just a "simple fix". I think the first thing is get the alternator to supply power. To do that, I have to fix the HVCO situation indicated by the Red LED of the regulator. With the correct voltage now on the "E" and the regulator telling me its...

Yes it does drop to 0. The voltage at the "E" terminal on the Voltage regulator is 26.4 - 27.8. According to C.E. Niehoff, the high voltage cut off set point 28.5 Volts. The Regulator is activating the cut off when the correct voltage is there. it is doing the same thing on the 12 Volt side...

spot on with the grounding. Somewhere along the way prior to me getting it, someone removed a few of the ground straps. Including the ones from the (-) battery to the GND of the alternator and from that same ground point to the frame. Settled all the numbers right out so I could find the cause...

Update: so after going through the drawings and finding no reason why my voltage should be dropping out (a major clue in itself) and listening to many of you on here, I am trusting the readings and going with a bad voltage regulator. Finding no discontinuity in the wiring, voltage where and what...

I am sorry Yes I did get that information. At batteries I have 12.7 and 25.4. at the PCP I have 12.3 and 25.0 It is just me so starting and measuring are proving difficult at the moment for the other readings.

I will be taking the shunt out of the equation next. and probably replacing grounding straps to eliminate that as a possible problem. There are a lot of those straps.

OK so a little update... I ran all the 12Volt terminals together and all the 24 volt terminals together. No change. I looked for a cannon connector but was not able to see one. Does that mean it is a polarity protection device and not an LBCD? I ran a wire from the battery to the to excitor...

After climbing up in engine, it is indeed a 3116. Big white label on the valve cover.