Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
I know this post is 10 years old, but I am looking for this seal. It is not an o-ring, and I cannot find one anywhere. Has anybody found a part number or alternate part that works?
Sounds like multiconductor cable (https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-htnyngf/product_images/uploaded_images/2.-multiconductor-reduced-size.jpg) maybe from a previous radio setup? Aside from that I cant imagine why it's there.
I picked up this M1008 in July and have been running down the requisite fluid leaks and electrical issues. I noticed that when I turn on the headlights the front turn signals and front side markers do not turn on. They do, however, flash when the turn signals are activated normally with the turn...
I use this light out of the bar mount. It's magnetic, sticks well and has bright enough LEDs. Gotta change the batteries is the only downside. But for me it beat permanent wiring. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WFZ6DB4/
To be honest the under dash light works well enough for most things...
These guys have new ones for a great price - https://www.ecklers.com/chevy-truck-instrument-panel-printed-circuit-warning-lights-1983-1987-61-329040-1.html
So just for the sake of clarity should we assume the the Delphi CHFP906 and the HFP906 are the same part? I ask because one is easier to find than the other. THANKS!
Personally, if that blazer title was clean and the CUCV VIN was clear too, I'd register the truck with whatever title it had and march on. Of course if you are adamant about registering it under its original VIN there has got to be a way to do that in your state....even as a rebuild or salvage...
Unfortunately I found the last post of this thread after I, also, broke 2 of the 4 local parts store adjusters. I ordered 4 of the green ones from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DXB346M. They cost more but snap in nice and tight and even seem to have a bit heavier screws. I lubed...
Thanks Recovry! Don't sweat it. I went to an old school locksmith shop with an old school key cutting machine and got a couple B49 blanks cut using the original 313531 cut code. 2 for $10 bucks. Both work like a charm.
Recovry I know it's been a year on this thread but do you think you could spare one of those CUCV keys? I could use an extra for a misplaced key (and locked M1008 doors). THANKS!
I always see them on Craigslist. Use a search like https://www.searchallcraigslist.org/ to search ALL of craigslist. I have also seen them for sale on FB Marketplace and Offerup. Good luck as nice ones won't be cheap and cheap ones wont be nice!