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Greetings from Missouri! This weekend I whacked my need against the starter switch on my M35 deuce and all the little pieces fell out on the floor. I found new ones at the vendors here but does anyone have one for sale?

You nailed it. The solenoid was losing voltage and closing. Thanks for your help!

Yes, that's my bad. I put it here then realized its not a good idea to start a different problem in a thread focusing on something else.

That bypass, you turn a thumbscrew clockwise to bypass the fuel shut off, right? That's up on the IP? What's that tell me, that the shut off solenoid is losing energizing because of the batts? Yeah, that battery issue, looks like I got one of four that's bad. It's expensive, but don't you...

I’ve got a fuel issue(?) with my 923. It will idle great but when you press the accelerator to go, it runs up a couple hundred RPMs then dies. RPM drops to around 400 and it “starts” and runs back up to normal idle. If I press the accelerator slow, it’ll get to 2000, then it does the same...

I’ve got a fuel issue with my 923. It will idle great but when you press the accelerator to go, it runs up a couple hundred RPMs then dies. RPM drops to around 400 and it “starts” and runs back up to normal idle. If I press the accelerator slow, it’ll get to 2000, then it does the same thing...

Are the engine components, such as connecting arms, rod bolts, pistons, etc., interchangeable between the manufacturers? Where's a good source for these parts?

Thanks, I wondered why that happened with only 26,000 miles on it. I'll look it up.

Last fall I started up my M109 and put it in reverse, traveled backwards about 30' and heard a loud bang. Got out to make sure I didn't run over the neighbor's Prius and my engine was running rough and knocking. I searched the site at the time, and found a post about a TB on connecting rod...

Ah, ok. I'll remember that. Thanks for the info, it was very helpful. Do you think I'd be okay wiring the heater direct to that breaker for the 120v? I've got other appliances running on the two 120v side lines and a 2000 watt heater might be too much for those breakers.

Yes, I've done that. Hooked up a gen outside and fed the 120v system. I was looking again at that breaker, it's 120v. It feeds a line numbered 704 that disappears into the wall. Does that go into the converter? Or where does it come out in the van? I really need to get a CD with the...

OH, I just looked in the circuit box and saw the wire sticking out of the circuit breaker and assumed it was 120v.

Very valuable info. I've got an M109A2 and I'd like to wire an electric heater into that heater circuit. I see on the diagram the multi pin connections, I'm guessing those are the ones on the front wall? Would you have a pin out schematic on those plugs? Also, any idea where I can get some...

It did have some blow by before, it looked like it would sit there and 'pant' at idle. This is also a 71 but I'm not sure of the date of mfg of the motor. A hole in the piston sounds like a good possibility, would it also create that banging knock I'm hearing?

Fractured piston would sure allow the blow into the crankcase. Do piston rods break?

Thanks for the tips, once I figure out the cylinder what is bad, what then? The oil pressure is 60 at idle, making me think the crank is good. And there's quite a bit of smoke coming out the blow hose. What do you think, bad valve? push rod bent?

My M109 has 27,940 miles on the odometer and around 1600 hours on it, got it from the SCNG. Usually runs like a top...except for today. Fired it up and backed it out of it's bay in the shop, heard a noise like a loud bang. Stopped thinking I might have hit something, but no.... Now it knocks...

Thank you, floridianson, for the explanation of the fuel control assembly versus shutoff, plus the hydro lock test. I'll implement that immediately.

Thanks, rustystud and all, got it running this morning. Easy solution, the spring loaded shut off valve was stuck in the closed position. Took off the cover, worked it back and forth, works like a champ. I didn't realize it wasn't directly connected to the shut off cable! I guess I left the...

More research on the site tells me that I need to check the plunger in the center of the HH for movement and perhaps the delivery valve on the side. Also to check the movement of the shut off valve by removing the access plate on the side. Any tips or tricks out there?