Search results

Ah cool. Thanks for the links. Sorry I missed your link in your earlier post.

Let's see some pictures!

Wow! Guess its not as strong as we thought... did you go for a refund or exchange?

Nice looking trailer!

I've bought two sets of these lights (ended up giving one set away to a friend), and both sets were just fine out of the box. No issues whatsoever. All lighting worked, and the magnets were great. Also, if you sign up for Harbor Freight's mailer, these lights go on sale for $9.99...

Looks like you got lucky and have a better setup now! Congrats on the new trailer. They aren't too heavy so they tend to pull pretty well.

I'd be a little cautious on that one. It weighs 13 lbs, seems the shank is not solid. It's hollowed out for the cushioning device. The model that Northern Tool sells features a solid shank, and overall weight is 24 lbs. I'm definitely no expert on this stuff, just an observation.

I think the angle they took their picture from and the angle I took mine from, it does look a little different with respect to the angled support piece. However, the rise (or lower) looks to be the same, 7 pairs of holes. They also could have beefed it up since that picture on their website...

Well I pay taxes for the roads, so they can fix them if I gouge them up. ;-) Good to know though about why they are crossed. I guess you want to make sure that when the chains are stretched that the "X" will be under the tongue, and a far enough behind so as to actually catch it. On the...

There's room for them to cross. Question though, why should they be crossed? I've read safety chains should be crossed, just never heard why they should be crossed.

Here's a few pics of my setup for my M101A3. I have the high rise adapter from Northern Tool (which is a solid shank). I don't remember what pintle I bought, but I think it was the 8-ton version. Also, since the high rise adapter sticks out further from the hitch, the safety chains no longer...

I don't know for sure, but I'm 95% sure they are solid rubber. The original runflats on the original HMMWV 8 bolt wheels were magnesium, but as far as I know the runflats used with the 12 bolt wheels were rubber. The proper way to remove the runflat is to use a runflat compressor, basically a...

Looks fun, but I'll be gone. :( Moving to northern California for 5 months, then off to North Dakota after that.

Just when I thought you were done, more cool mods! Box looks great. Gonna put a lock on it or anything?

:beer: Looks great!!

Okay, thanks to the tons of help in this thread (wiring diagrams, light bulb help, and ideas!) I was able to make my 24v M101A3 compatible with a civilian 12v truck system, and do it on the cheap side. No need to spend $120 on the premade cables. My civilian truck is a 1998 AM General HUMMER...

Generally, smack dab middle of your roof. But that's if you have a steel roof, and if it happens to be the largest, flat, horizontal surface on the vehicle. it gives you a solid ground plane.

CB radio isn't bad... Ham radio is much better. I do have both installed in my Ranger and in my HUMMER. Even under austere conditions the Ham will reach further and sound better than the CB under optimal conditions. Getting your technician license will allow pretty much full use on the VHF/UHF...

Same here, I've had two sets that have been great. Never once had one come off, never had one that was wired incorrectly.

Congrats on your purchase. I got my M101A3 for a little more than that. Ft Sill had 10 M101A3s in separate auctions (but at the same time) and all were in pretty much like new condition. On average they went for $815 (before fees) with the most expensive selling for $1,070 (before fees), so...