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I blew an alternator (driver side) and it was changed at one point with a caddy si27 ...i called my parts guy and told him i need a 27si for a 75 caddy ... he said a 22si would go in place of the 27si ... he sends me a 22si 160 amp... ok now i get it and the bolt holes are larger and the spread...
Both, the plastic and the stud it did arc on the body of the alt but no idea why it burned the plastic in the first place to let the stud hit the alt body ... New alt on the way
ok found the problem while checking all the alt wires ... the driver side alt where the red wire goes, the stud that the wire goes on came out with the wire it looks a little burnt no idea why this happened but it looks like a trip to get a new alt
ok ill do that now .... ill take a pic but ive had problems in the past posting pics... the wire def goes to the alt someplace it has a rubber boot like an alt wire
having trouble with my front battery ..... here's whats up... this truck has the driver side alt replaced with the caddy one for over a year with no problems , about 1 1-2 months ago the truck was dead so i charged both batteries and noticed the front battery didn't pass a load test so i...
I've been researching this on the web.... It seems that the c 60 tach fuel combo is the easiest they say the fuel gauge uses the existing contacts for the old fuel gauge and you have to cut a hole in the back of the cluster for the tach connection
Thanks .... I'll check it out ..... The filter is only with only about 3000 miles but it still can be plugged and I have a CAT spin on housing with a primer pump to install anyway ... Where do I find this check valve on the IP and how do you open it up
On my M1008 during hard acceleration when it gets about 1/2-3/4 of the way thru theRPM range it Boggs down On power and blows blue smoke ..... Is my IP going,??? Or could it be something else
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