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One more thing is that when I drove the truck, after the idle dropped to the low idle, it seemed like the whole cab was vibrating at a resonant frequency or something. Once I hit the gas it would stop. Not sure if that is something else to worry about either? Just trying to make sure I get a...
Thanks for the info guys. I'll take a look at the starter and if it turns out to be that and I end up getting the truck I'll be doing a 12v conversion right quick.
Ok. Update here. I went to look at the truck again and the guy hooked it up to a jumper box and it started right up. I think it had been started earlier that day though because when I turned the key the GP lights only kicked on for about a second. However, this kind of leads me away from a...
Ah yes, I forgot how much the D60 front was worth. I would be willing to pay 3500 for the truck, just not one that doesn't run. Oh how I remember these same issues with my 1009...
Ok, so right now I'm thinking about going back and looking at the truck again. The guy is asking 3500 for it, and no way in **** would I pay that much. Figuring since I bought my last 1009 at 2500 and in good working order, I'll probably offer 2 grand on this one if I can hear it run. If I...
Hey everyone!
After my year or so of driving my civvy pickup, I'm in the mood for another M/V. This time, I'm living in Wilmington, North Carolina, and I really don't go much more than 45 MPH most of the time, I think an M1008 is practical for me now. I went and looked at one today, but I had...
I have mine with the mount facing forewards on the front of the grille. Then I just turned the lights 90 degrees and it looks pretty good. I'll take pics tomorrow in the light.
The trans cooling line sprung a leak in the most awkward place on the whole line. Its under the engine on top of the crossmember. Its the place where two lines are right next to each other. When I start the truck, fluid shoots out of the leak under pressure. I'm thinking the patch will be a...
Well I looked at it a little more today and it seems to be one of the transmission cooling lines that runs into the drivers side of the radiator. I don't think I can remove the line without some major work, so looks like I will be patching it. This should be fun. It's in a pretty tough to get...
Ya,
My Blazer has recently decided that it is too manly for fluids. The latest one it decided to get rid of is the trans fluid. If I'm running it, I have a pretty solid stream of it flowing out from underneath. Problem is, I can't find the source of the problem. There are drips everywhere...
Yup, I'm having a lot of trouble with the cable ends on the front battery. I put on heavy duty ends, and they worked for a while. They are both toast now though. I think it may be because I lost one of the bolts that holds the battery in place to a fire (don't ask) and now when it slides...
I knew it. Mine has been doing that a lot lately. I just bought the heavy duty cable ends and they have been fine now. Just make sure they don't short out to the battery tray. I had a fire that way.
Is something terrible going to happen if I remove the panel and crank with the window halfway up, because as I stated before the window is stuck halfway up and will not move up or down. Don't ask how it happened, because I'm not too sure either.
Ok 2 little problems. How do I get the window crank and door lock thing off? Those are probably easy but go easy on me I've never done it before. Second problem is that the window won't go down all the way. It's stuck halfway between up and down and only moves like 2 inches either way.
The window got off the track on my m1009, and for the life of me I can't get the top portion of the inside door panel to come off. The area where it attatches to the molding right by the window opening seems to have some little clips on the inside. I'm not too sure how I am supposed to access...
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