Search results

Thanks for the great information sandcobra! Looks like my tach is probably low by about 300rpm, maybe a little less. My truck will free-rev to right around 2,600 on the tach so I think my tach might just be hanging up in the 2,000-2,500 range. Either way I know to add a little to what the tach...

The other thing my grandfather mentioned was if there was a crane or excavator around they unhitched the trailer from the truck then pulled the gooseneck off with the crane or excavator. This only worked unloaded though due to the weight of the trailer when loaded with a dozer.

That would be great sandcobra, I have often wondered about the tach as it was unhooked when I originally bought the truck but I hooked it back up and it has seemed to work fine ever since. I normally shift at 2,300-2,400 rpm when pulling a load and about 2,200 when bobtailing so I know I'm not...

Dipstick, I am not sure what gears my M275 has in it, I have never checked. Maybe somebody on here can speak up if they know whether or not the gears in them were different than a standard deuce would be. To be really exact my standard 2,000rpm cruising speed is in-between 50 and 55, my speedo...

The truck in picture number four is actually a 1994 International 4700 with a early 1990's Elliot crane/manlift on the back. Elliot makes there cranes what I consider to be very simple but seems to be a time proven strategy that holds up great. You are certainly not the first person to assume...

Ah, now that you pointed out its axles I can see it.

Dave, are those winches on the back of that M275? I got a 15,000 lb hydraulic winch going on my lowboy that will be powered along with the rest of the hydraulics.

With the black frame it really doesn't look like 11's sometimes but they are. Ive turned the fuel up some and on acceleration it is about 1150 on the pyro and cruising it is about 1100 at 2,000rpm. This seems safe to me but has anybody else towed for miles on end at 1100 degrees on their pyro?

They are 11x20 tires and unless my tach is way off it is doing 55 at about 2000-2100rpm. I have verified the speed with a gps and another car. I usually cruise at 2000rpm regardless of what the speedo says just because I feel that is what the engine sounds comfortable at.

Over the past couple months I have been restoring a 1948 Rogers Lowboy to go behind my M275 that I will be using to haul my antique tractors and cars around. It is just about done now all that is left is the deck, hydraulic rear ramps and hydraulic ground-bearing cylinder for dropping the deck...

I would say keep the shock too. I robbed parts from a commercial seat and did this same mod to my M275 seat, no shock and it bounced back way too hard. For safeties sake or if you plan on doing any offloading I'd recommend the shock for sure.

http://www.boyceequipment.com/#!product/prd1/466880301/military-m35-brake-light-switch-(7064588) http://www.boyceequipment.com/#!product/prd1/466966361/military-5-ton-brake-light-switch-(ms75062-1) top is hydraulic switch bottom is air not sure why it separated the links

Sorry, Try this link for a 5-ton style switch like my M275 has Try this link for a hydraulic brake light switch

On my M275 it was by where the air splits off for the fifth wheel glad-hands. Im not exactly sure where it would be on a regular deuce but I'd guess it is close to the air pack. If you find it, take a piece of wire and connect the two terminals and see if the brake lights come on and go off...

My M275 had the same problem but they usually stuck off not on. I have the air operated switch. Pulled the old switch off and realized it was full of crud, went down to the local heavy truck parts store and bought a new style air brake light switch. It was half the size of the original and...

NDT, Recovry4x4, I checked this weekend and mine does not have the tractor protection, the box under the fifth wheel simply splits the air to go to the gladhands for the tractor trailer and the fifth wheel trailer at the rear.

NDT, Ill check tomorrow or saturday, there is a valve like thing in between the air line and the gland hand under there by the fifth wheel. I have never encountered a situation where the valve would kick because I always tried to avoid them because I thought the tractor didn't have the valve in...

Thanks Recovry4x4, I read most of the manuals but never saw that, it really makes me feel better towing a trailer with it knowing I never will loose total air pressure.

NDT, if the truck does already have tractor protection built in like recovry4x4 says then absolutely ill just crack the gladhand open and drain it but if I was going to add tractor protection I just figured I'd add a valve in the cab too, and be set up like any other semi.

The truck does have tractor protection, is it integrated into the trolley valve, I was not aware that it had one.