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I am out of the game for good now... could you remove me from the list? ... and thanks for all you have done.

I finally purchased some additional sheet steel and plan on continuing this project to completion. Sorry for the delay in updates but no one would just give my steel unless I paid for it; therefore, the project had to be put on hold until now. The wife bought me 4 new Goodyear 14.00 R20 for the...

My wife was kind enough to buy me 4 new Goodyear 14.00 R20 for the rear axles for father's day. Local tire shop installed one and said to come pick up the truck... they gave up. I brought it home and installed the other three by myself in the garage... without any of their fancy pneumatic...

I've read several TM and posts with many descriptions on what to do when certain lights are flashing on the CTIS control panel. When I bought my M923A2 all of the tire valve hoses at the tire were unscrewed and left hanging there. Valve stem seals had been placed into each tire valve stem and I...

Cut to shape with a straight edge and started the grinding process. I believe this will work out and look close to factory. Certainly cheaper than buying one and then shipping it in my case.

In my opinion, making the compound curves on either side above the driver's or passenger's head, will be the most difficult... for me, anyway. Wanted to make it curve similar to a factory top which meant no sharp edges. I started cutting card stock paper into strips and taping them to my known...

I bought two of these portholes to cut into the rear wall behind the driver's head. They are made with safety glass and open by way of two screw latches. I hope they will look military enough to blend in.

In an effort to use the steel I already have on hand, I will be piecing the 16 gauge sheet metal and butt welding the edges for a, hopefully, smooth appearance. First I have to see if I can roll the metal by hand since I don't own a slip roll. Some cold rolled pipe clamped down on the cut to fit...

That's a sharp look but I have to lean over now to see the traffic lights. I would have to install a mirror on the hood to see them with a visor installed. 8)

Post #3 updated... long way to go. Thank you for your comments.

Every place a round bar met a flat-bar I tried to make as much welding area as I could, notching things for more surface area. Attaching the half loop that will make the curve section above the driver's head. Taking shape; basic frame to which I will do my best to roll 16 gauge steel sheet...

Now to make the part that will mate to the top of the cab using 1/2 inch round bar. Started with attempting to match the curve of the cab with the round bar using an EMT pipe bender; worked ok. Now I will run a round bar to connect the top flat-bar to the round bar at the bottom. Tack weld...

Starting with the area directly on top of the windshield frame. Needs to be flat-bar and needs to be able to cover the opening at the corners of the frame. Also want to be able to put a seal between the flat-bar and the windshield frame to keep some of the rain out. Measured the distance across...

At this point it's 20/20 hindsight for me. Going to move FORWARD and learn from my experience.

I think replacing it with a new unit would be more peace of mind and would hopefully avoid me making it worse. Found some in the classifieds here and will be ordering. Again, thanks for everyone's help.

I want to make sure we are talking about the same thing; the picture attached is the dryer correct?

I will most definitely review and repair everything mentioned here and I can't thank you all enough. Home sweet home, maintained air pressure all the way home... finding a new dryer next. Thank you all again.

Geez, all of a sudden both tanks are building pressure normally. Looks like draining secondary did the trick?

Ok, just drained secondary, now no air building in either tank.

Parking brake is working normally.