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as for residual valves...the brake master is alot higher than the wheels. my understanding is you need this if brakes are level or master is below cylinders etc to prevent fluid from going back into reservoir.

let me answer some questions raised here....when i got the truck po removed all rear brake lines and fronts were not working. i did a total refresh, all new lines, all new pads, spring etc etc for all 4 wheels. the brake pedal is very hard....not soft at all. all brake cylinders are standard...

your suggestion may be exactly my problem...i researched here this From the archives....using the Jeep dual master cylinders is not recommended in the M715: Quote: Caution to all who are considering installing dual piston master cylinders: the 60's and 70's vintage civilian Jeep...

i dont know exactly possible '73? but im not sure. it was defintely from a j series pickup

are you saying i need to change out my master cylinder?

i dont have a proportioning valve. my setup is the following: brake rservoir has 2 chambers, and 2 connectors one for each, one goes to front and one goes to back. i hooked up copper nickel line to each and then it goes to each wheel from these 2 lines ie a splitter. my brake pedal is very...

if bore for mc is too large...how to fix? as i mentioned it is not stock....previous owner converted to j type truck cab and used the master from it. i did use 1/4 inch brake line in some places when replacing the brake lines

i lifted up wheel and adjusted until i cant turn wheel with my force. i concentrated more on fronts than backs. i do have a high idle...but brakes do not hold the vehicle and it rolls in gear. when i bleed brakes i do get a steady flow. the master came from gladiator j type pickup...

i jacked up each wheel and got so i cant turn wheel by hand when brakes applied....even though lets say fronts are adjusted but back are not....should that hold the truck?? and prevent the rolling? i have an autobox and it rolls in reverse and drive. its quite scary even with pedal depressed...

i have braking problem. rolls under braking...will not come to a dead stop in gear. all braking system was replaced, new lines, new pads, adjuster wheels etc. only thing not replaced was drum. i have a front/rear reservoir i think came from a j pickup truck etc. brake pedal is hard not soft...

i havent had that problem, mainly bc the material is so thick its not like a polyurethane tarp this tarp has structure. in addition, i always park on a slight upslope and i sometimes lower my tailgate. the material holds up well to blizzard of 2016 and what i mainly like is the fact that the...

canvas tarp here you go....i have some extras pm for details, pricing thanks

just finished my canvas tarp project on the m715 pickup truck bed. it covers the whole bed from rear of cab to the tailgate, outfitted with brass grommets and is olive drab in color. it looks great....and it doesnt move with the wind. i made this because i keep things in the bed and didnt want...

i really dont want extra trucks parts etc there is a space/logisitcs issue.... really curious is anyone has replaced the center bed portion only from a scratch build etc

if you are parting out pieces though let me know. im looking for the fuel filler brackets and fuel piece that cap screws into. i assume the rubber is toast on many of these, but i think there is a metal cylinder that the brackets attach to? also interested in headlight bezels but mine was...

thanks...but i only need the center portion maybe 2.5 feet X 93 inches and i didnt think you wanted to cut yours up. i dont have the infrastructure to handle another whole bed, and with shipping costs plus cost of bed to seller it makes more sense to fab something then weld in place. ideally...

anyone built from scratch the truck bed? and some crossmember supports? curious what gauge steel the truck bed is, and i read on a forum that one person was going to fab it brake bent...to replace his bed.