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GREAT! thanks! do you need to purchased mounting bolts separately?

That is VERY NICE!! do you the lift shock model/specs?

there was a kit that had it mounted it on the upper spring mount tower. just drill a hole threw it, thread it and bolt it on,

has anyone updated the lights to LED lights?

ok,couple more questions I had the positive coming off the center (24 volt)post of the front battery with an in line fuse. found that in line fuse holder is now bad too. I used to remove the fuse each time I shut the truck off. could I set up a rocker/toggle switch....between the inline fuse...

thanks for the reply! ok, so found out the 24/12v -20amp converter was bad (smoking wires when hooked up to 12v battery). Now, what is the correct connection to the batteries? I have heard.... take 24v source from the post inside the battery box and ground wire from the shunt to the 24/12v...

When I try to hook up a 24/12 volt 20 amp converter to the 24 vol positive post (going to the starter) inside the battery box, I get an arc at the positive post. any ideas what is happening? thanks,

check the crankshaft pulley bolt is tight. I had it loosen up and almost wore the keyway away. started fine but blew smoke.... timing was off due to pulley loose side to side, wearing away the keyway on the crankshaft you may notice the pulley move abnormally, it should be tight.

does the ametek use a glow plug controller in the water crossover?

how many glow plugs will not come out? did you check all 8? there is a steel soldiers thread about the manual Glow button, great idea! plugs could have failed due to bad plugs or bad GP controller, or bad PCB. or poor ground....

FIRST, easiest "possible" fix if you have the push button light switch.... remove it and install the old 3 lever light switch. the push button switch in an EPIC disaster in a HMMWV. Which box do you have in the truck? can you attach a photo? from under the dash is best. if you do not have the...

I have mine Line-x'd, looks nice, but does nothing for sound. This video above is what will make the most difference! I tried it and it works!

finally had some time to look into the wire chaffing and difficult steering issue.... found that I installed this bolt backwards. The head of the bolt was hitting the column U joint. it is installed correctly now. no more difficult steering.

I think it has to be a grounding issue. possibly alternator? thought the same thing with mine, removed it and had it tested. it was working properly. here is what mine looked like back in March 2018. I had the KDS green label PCB. it appears to happen at random, on all boxes. this is why I say...

UPDATE: thank you to everyone for the input/info and help! there is allot of info out there.... checked the harnesses (engine and body), both good, alternator, good. glow plugs were good, but put new ones in. fired up and so far so good! I ended up going with the LAU tech. box why would you do...

could anyone please photos or TM info showing the correct routing of the body harness from above the accelerator pedal routing behind the steering column. mine has to be installed incorrectly as it was chaffing on the steering column at the u joint. see photo below.... thanks in advance!

Did MD recently change their inspection vendor? applus. Many states have been changing to the same vendor and the impression is going to a federal safety inspection, not a state safety inspection.soon

3/4 inch thick stall mat = DONE.

while looking at the harnesses, I noticed this chaffing on the body harness behind the steering wheel. looks like the U-joint was rubbing the harness. it did not go all the way into the wires though. May have caught this just in time!! do you think putting a rubber hose over this will be good...