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Here is the load bank.

I built a load bank today and tested the generator on it. I can run one dryer element and it pulls 22-25A on each leg. I had one that would pull 27A when I switched it on and it bogged the set down. It seems like when it bogs, the RPM just keeps going down until maybe 1000RPM and it just sits...

I did the maintenance items well before I hooked the set up to the house. I have an aux pump adapted to run as the primary pump, so that could be causing fuel flow issues. I will hook up my 12v fuel pump externally and see if that makes a difference - after I get some dryer elements.

I had set it to 62-63Hz at idle. I will have to adjust that at 80% load, like you suggested.

I have edited the above to answer your questions.

The AC condenser unit is rated at 25 RLA and 115 FLA. The air handler in the attic was pulling a total of about 4 amps with nothing else in the house on. I was able to load the generator up to 56 total amps and it maintained over 60Hz, so I think the gen set is doing its job. The % power gauge...

With the house at idle, ac running, pool pump on, fridge, a few lights and a window unit, I'm seeing right about 25A per leg on the load terminals in the transfer switch. I run it at 240V, so that is 50A total draw. Startup is something that is going to be an issue. With everything off except...

Hi guys, I finally got my generator wiring finished to the house but I have a problem with the generator under load. Any larger power draw like the AC or water heater puts the generator flat on its face. It almost stalled out several times while I tried to jockey the load around. It runs the...

Mine has been working fine with the smaller aux pump running as the primary. I just needed the right fittings.

I'm still trying to sell an 803A with a little over 5000 hours on it. Everything works and I refreshed it when I got it. I still have not had a serious buyer. I'm asking $3000 but will negotiate. People like to call on it, setup a showing and then fall off the planet.

Paint it hot pink. That way you can be unique!

Here is the part number: 76700-91640B

Our favorite market of fleas! fleabay! Right now a guy/gal has some listed for $30+5 shipping. Not cheap but not horrible, either for the price of diesel filters.

Dunno, man. If I was out of power for 19 days, I would be glad to have an MEP. Diesel is easier to store than gas and more efficient than propane. Just my opinion.

I'm not sure I am understanding what is going on here. Are you guys saying that the black water separator/pre-filter with the petcock at the bottom is difficult to source? I bought two of them last spring to keep as spares. I didn't have an abnormally hard time finding them; nor were they expensive.

52 Amps assuming you have each leg perfectly balanced. These sets are known to be able to handle 135% or more load, so the cable could see more than 52 amps per leg. De-rate your cable to 80% to meet NEC code for bundled conductors over 24" in length. This puts #6 CU at 60A. Also remember...

That's a fairly long run. I would use 100 amp service entrance cable with 2/0 AL conductors. It is cheaper per foot than copper cable. Cat 5/6 for low voltage control cable.

How low did the frequency drop? 15,000 watts is not useful, to me, unless it is real close to 60hz.

ALS? I thought you meant Automatic Load Shedding. Now it sounds like some kind of medical issue. You can sell the trailer on craigslist. Lots of people looking for them. I was thinking about a steel fuel storage tank mounted up on a frame but the logistics of getting one of those transported...

On the truck forums, people suggest soaking a rag in gasoline and placing it in or around the intake. I have never done it but if I were to, I would rather spray it in with a spray bottle.