Search results

spin on oil/fuel filters, gun rack, external fuel pump, tire chains, pyrometer.

I would think a non turbo would smoke a bit until the cylinders warm up since part of the combustion is from heated air.

spray something around the area and find the leak. exhaust leak isnt bad to fix, head gasket takes a little more work, but at least its a pushrod engine.

you can get a primary filter with the mounting housing off of fleabay that has a water drain on the spin on filter, to take the housing and filter off a old F250 with the 7.3IDI diesel and mount it to the frame...all kinds of options to jerry rig a better system there. there's only a little...

so you think there may be air getting into the system?

I would look for a leak that is allowing air into the system when the engine is off.

sounds hydrolocked. I'd drain the oil, pull the injectors and bar it over.

you could make that railing on top of the cabin removable, hinged, or 1 foot shorter to give you some clearance.

depth perception and figuring out what you are actually looking at before you hit it. it works better if a passenger was using it.

get out your voltage meter/tester and just work your way up from the batteries. Most of the time its just a bad/corroded connection. Did you check for power on both sides of the cutoff switch?

its the sarrated groves in the metal that should give you a clue to where it came from, or what part it came off of. maybe a rebuilder would have a idea.

looks like part of a seal to me. Was there is any spall specs of rubber when you drained the oil?

maybe a combination of big tires, front locker pulling the truck and grabbed some traction under the snow on something. Probably will never happen again.

what size tires/wheels are you running?

I thought about using skid steer tracks pieced together for the correct length, but never got beyond thinking. Now I just chain up one axel in the rear.

If you think you're the first person to do that, you're wrong.....its a big club.

2-3K$ if you can do all the work. at that price, there is no risk. The owner may consider parting it out himself if you go too low. but a 3 grand offer would sway most from the bother of hauling a carcass away after the vultures pick at it. just make sure the Frame is straight unless you have...

Metal in the pan is a game changer. you will HAVE to drop the pan after you inspect the valve train. The fact that you state its so loud,(the squeal) I would give the main and rod bearings a look, since you have to drop the pan and completely clean everything for metal.

There isnt a bearing that would squeak. only sleeve bearings and bushings. the camshaft is in the block, not the heads. So you should find out first what is squeaking. sound transmits everywhere. A likely culprit could even be a transmission input shaft bushing in the flywheel, or a throw out...

So the one on the left in the pics is the higher ratio? hard to tell without measuring, but the total amount is in the thousandths. changing the rocker ratio is sort of like getting a higher lift camshaft. I would think if you had them mounted side by side, one would open the valve maybe 25-30...