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I used Noico sound deadener. I saw a lot of car stereo people were using it, so I bought some off Amazon to to the cab floors of my M1009. Works great, easy to install, sticks, and conforms without lifting to the compound curves. Although I did cut it in multiple sections to make installing it...
I have to agree with you on these stupid prices. but it is supply and demand. I love my H1 doors. Pretty durable. I would like a set of X doors though... I have been watching many auctions...and they arte not selling at the high prices. Hopefully I can cobble up a nice set and massage them back...
I think you should use whatever you want to paint your vehicle. That being said, water-born house paint is less toxic than real CARC. You should be painting CARC with a hood and fresh air supply. If you can sense any faint smell...you have a leak. CARC IS a polyurethane paint system and contains...
I am in the planning stages of shipping my 1942 Ford over to France for an end of may arrival for the 75th anniversary of D-Day. Going to stay two weeks and then ship it back to the west coast.
I was wondering if anyone else is going to Normandy with their jeep. If so and you are leaving from...
My rust was at the two top corners! You would think they would be at the bottom, but the lower corners were clean.
I have noticed the irregularity of the pinch weld due to spot welding. If that pinch weld was smooth and uniform throughout, the rubber weather-strip would have a better seal...
Got a tinted windshield with antenna delivered for $120. Getting the windshield gasket with locking trim from Precision.
What are you guys using on the pinch-weld before you put the weather strip on? Or are you going dry?
Anyone use the Softseal brand of windshield weather-strip? I contacted the company and they have the seal, but they said there is no locking strip. I was under the impression that the stock seals had a locking strip.
Anyone have any good sources for the windshield weather-strip?
WAR
Question: Anyone buy a new windshield recently? Looking for a good vendor. I tried locally, but am getting Safelite, AAA autoglass...all installers - and I want to do this myself.
LMC - $254 ($129 + $125 freight)
Brothers - $249 ($139 + $110 shipping)
Has anyone seen a restored P51 Mustang? They NEVER looked like that in the theater of operations in WW2. I can appreciate a vehicle that has not been over restored. I am guilty of this...and it is a hard trait to break, going from collector vehicles to mil vehicles. My uncle was in the US Army...
My opinion, and please don't take it as anything caustic, but I think just because you are in the vehicle restoration business, it does not make one an authority on all paint systems. I have also been in this business (restoring classic cars and motorcycles) and would have not recommended house...
My M1009 had not been repainted. I pulled the handles off. They looked grey from fading, but the bottom portion looks to be flat or satin. because it is smooth I would say almost satin, but again - hard to tell from the wear and fading. I would defer to CUCVRUS.
Cheap Chinese crap? A ton of items are made in China and it would be difficult to avoid having a little “Cheap Chinese crap” on your vehicle. I looked the handle over and I doubt you would be able to tell where it was made. But sand away! There are many ways to fix up your vehicles...
Make sure you use a seam sealer on replacement metal joints if you are not circumference welding the patch. Seam sealer cannot be applied over an etching primer...fyi. So if you etch it, spray it with epoxy primer and then seam seal it...or buy the seam sealer that is direct to metal...