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Ohhh now I see where you're at. There's a slot that you can pop a pocket screw driver in and push in the lock retainer. That's odd that is in that truck. I think you can use the new style with the bolt but not sure. Might be easier to get the older style. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Well I got nothing for ya then. I've rebuilt dozens of these straight columns and tilt ones and never had a problem pulling them out. You shouldn't pull on that cover just pull on the key wiggling it around to get it to release. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Ok did you turn the key to run and pull on it? Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Looks like you took the bolt out that holds it in . Pop the key in and turn it to run and it'll pull out. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

New parts doesn't mean working parts. Is it an isolated ground one? Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Ohh so the switch on the column needs adjusted. Light's work without the key. The metal rod that goes down to it...does it move far enough to hit the start end of the relay? I don't think I knew about a column rebuild...no biggie. Get that adjusted right and see what happens. Sent from my...

Ok...get away from thinking this is a 24 volt problem. It's not. It's a simple 12 volt alternator that's used in many cars made in the 80s. If you lost key on power you probably popped a fuse under the dash. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Pretty sure that's what I said. No need to try and nit pick. Actually. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

The light comes on with the key, and the regulator, brown wire, is the ground. Once you start it, the ground is gone because the regulator is using the power. Where are you getting a ground for your meter checking the brown wire at the alternator? Don't use the battery...use the block or body...

So you do have continuity from the bulb to the alternator plug. So you have to have power at the alternator plug then since you have power at the bulb. They're on the same wire. You can't have both and no power at the plug. It's not possible. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Just need to put your voltmeter in between and read what it says. Figure f9 in the tm shows the connection the brown wire goes through the firewall on. Back probing that is very difficult so you'd have to unbolt it to test it from the block to the alternator and the block to the bulb. Sent from...

Ok so this makes no sense. If the brown wire has tested good from the cluster to the alternator it has to have power at the alternator because you have power at the bulbs. It's a straight shot through the firewall to the alternator. Have you ohm checked the brown wire from the alternator to the...

All you need to do is test that brown wire at the cluster to the alternator. That will tell you if it's good or not. If it does not test good, go to the fuse block and test there. If that's good, go from the fuse block to the alternator. One of the 2 will give you the answer. Sent from my...

Ok so you don't have power on pin 1 on the double pin plug that goes to the voltage regulator. The brown wire. You have power to the red wire. You do that test with it not plugged in. You should have power at the brown wire with the key on with it not plugged in. That brown wire for gen one goes...

The ground is the voltage regulator in the alternator. The test in the sticky will tell you what's wrong with the system. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Ground comes from the alternator. The test in the sticky goes over it easy. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

So having voltage on both sides of the gen light bulb means the ground isn't there. I use a PowerProbe to test those bulbs before I put the cluster back in. You can activate each bulb. It's not led right? They won't work in the gen lights. There's a sticky about testing the alternators in the...

If you have a burned up starter solenoid there's nothing you can do to get it to turn over with the exception of tapping it with a hammer...and that's an extremely short term fix. You'd have to replace the contacts in the solenoid to make it work again. I've done that with several of them and...

I found some at a body shop paint store in a quart size. I can't recall the brand off hand. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Only time I've had good luck getting paint to stick and not scratch off was heat. I started with a heat gun and got the panel hot then painted it right away. That worked pretty good but I found my oven goes down to 175 degrees so yeah...I put it in there with the door cracked for about 15...