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Sounds like you just got a crappy battery! It happens. I've gotten in the habit to slow charge every new battery I get for a few days. Is it charging normal now that it's running ok? Tidbit on the doghead...it can melt on too. I've got one I had to rip the hot side off of when it did.
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Ok if that battery drained down like that I'd be checking the alt relay next to your starter relay under the dash...could be stuck on...or unplug the passenger side alternator as it could be pulling from there. With it drained that low something is pulling from it.
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I'm a little confused on one thing, is when you set it for 3 phase the genset works fine powering the stove and other things, or do you have a 3 phase load bank. I can't remember since you have a bunch of stuff I've seen on your videos. That could point in a direction to go if 3 works but single...
Ok. The rear one wouldn't effect that fusible link since the power comes from the front battery. Fusible links are a fuse so there's a short after it or the trucks pulling to much power.
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Which battery did you replace? Front or rear? The rear one gives you the 12 volt feed for the fuse box and ignition switch. Could be you burned the fusible link from the rear battery.
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Had fun digging through all the surplus stuff today getting ready for spring Carlisle. I found 3 of these little gems for the drivers rear head. Nice that it comes with the harness adapter and directions. I think one of these is getting put in now too. New steering wheel and return lines look...
I just told ya!! Front turn signal...it's up top of the coolant res or just in front of the front battery...could be the bulb socket internal side ground too...take bulbs out and see if things change.
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Ok going back a few to line 1 you said you checked voltage when on and it was 12 volts but off it was 5 volts...you found your problem...you're missing the ground at the headlight for that side...it's backfeeding the system. When it's off you should have 0 volts.
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Were the battery cables changed or kept stock? If stock pop it back to 24 volt or upgrade to bigger cables for 12 volt. You'd need alternator and brackets and hopefully no wiring if they left it all in. It's not hard changing to 12 volt.
Looks great!! I like white lithium on those bearings. I always lose that little spring for the horn...goes flying to neverland.
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The 6707 antenna and the cucv side mounts and gaurds...I can get the side mounts new still if you wouldn't want to move those but the side gaurds are nice to get.
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I've used stock bolts and arp makes a set too. About the same price...get the stock ones nos from a surplus guy. Sounds like someone got hold of it that didn't have money or no idea what to do. Nice thing with those 400s is they're cheap n easy to rebuild. I've done many with surplus parts that...
Sounds like a shxt show for sure!! I wonder if they did that 12 volt thing to the starter because they new it was 12 volt?? Not realizing the main starter was getting 24? Who knows but it sounds like you just need a good starter. It have the knurled starter bolts still?
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@cucvrus may have one...I got one of his a few years ago and it's still goin! Another guy in Massachusetts named Mike Morin has a bunch too...hes on Facebook...I got one from him a few months ago...all used but not Chinese made. I'd avoid anything new and at the most pop some brushes in it...
Which one popped off? If I remember right the ac kits has the pump on the passenger side and runs of the alternator belt. I can give you stock ones for the drivers side but I have no idea what is used on the ac ones.
For me I verify that power is on the printed circuit for the gen 1 light is the only way to make sure the bulb socket is good. Which means pulling the cluster back and using a test light etc and see if it has power to the bulb...I like to do a voltage drop on both sides to see if it is 0 so I...
I hear that!! I like to pop a new one in when I have that apart...dang keys can be pretty worn out. Curious do you have a round ended key or a square one? Does one key open the doors and start it?
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