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PVC is a really bad idea- it's attacked by UV, ozone, heat & vibration. It tends to shatter violently when it fails while pressurized with air. Google "PVC air line exploded." If your tank isn't stainless or aluminum, I wouldn't use it. Steel corrodes & plastic doesn't like UV and high pressure...

Actually, I had meant winterization between runs. Once the engine's warm, I see no problem with introducing water into the lines or nozzle. The solenoid is safely inside the cab & tends to be self-heating during use. If I install my tanks in the M109's box, I can put them in a box with some...

Define "Working Good." Aside from random leaks caused by fittings that needed tightening, I've not had any malfunctions. I'd like to add a few pressure switches to add an indicator light circuit to show that the system's got electrical power & pressure to the solenoid. "Working Good" as far...

I'm not sure when the last rebuild was, but I think my engine's dataplate is dated '89. The copper lines on the frame, steel injector lines & tank may not have been this well cleaned in 20+ years. Fuel used to look like dark tea, lightened up considerably after adding the B20, then got darker...

Kohburn, that last line sounded like something I said yesterday about my fuel system. This spring I'm replacing every rubber/copper/nylon line I've got with Biodiesel rated bits. I suddenly got nervous about the little rubber line in the tank, the old copper hard-lines & the unknown (nylon?)...

As mentioned earlier in this thread, any kind of ethanol/methanol in the intake of a (hot?) multifuel makes for nasty engine knock. Pure water or very low (1%) methanol only. Pressure's a big challenge, even with the soda kegs- My truck runs around 85-95 PSI and the pepsi-style kegs have a...

Ok, after a couple of long drives (totaling over 1200mi) Here are my experiences & recommendations. Get a 10GPH nozzle, unless you want to try a multi-stage system. 15 may be needed if you really want to crank it, but it'll demand even more water. Get the 24v electronic controller from Auber...

Missed one- pic of spare 18mm spark-plug air-hold/compression-tester adapter. Make sure you get a 1/4" NPT version. You'll need a 1/8" pipe tap to thread the inside of the 18mm end for the injector. I used Swage-lok fittings from eBay for the DOT tubing, 1/4" ID air-hose from Lowes with...

I have the sneaking suspicion that I'm a doofus. I need to pull the injector/adapter assembly for a pic of it assembled... & to check the markings. I think I've got the 10gph nozzle installed- or I mixed up the bags. McMaster-Carr sent the parts in numbered bags & included a packing list with...

Full 70psi pressure. My apologies- the nozzles are 3178K75 (installed) & 3178K76. The 'K75 is going to flow ~3.9gph at 55-60 psi. The flow's slightly non-linear, with some complicated math. The 'K75 comes in slightly under a 0.7mm nozzle, once I converted MCMaster's 40/100psi numbers to cc/min...

Ok, I'll be taking some pics tomorrow, once I clean the excess junk out of the cab. I got it all installed Wednesday, just before leaving for a camping trip on Thursday morning. Tested 3gph nozzle, no noticeable effect. 6gph nozzle was installed for a trip from Auburn, NY to the the Moose...

Nothing yet- still waiting on parts. Keg should be here today, so I hope to have it running tomorrow. Initial system will be triggered by boost pressure. As I already have a rubber hose run to a combination EGT/boost gauge, I'll just tee into that. I would like to upgrade to a controller later...

Looks like 9-10psi will be my current setpoint. I get 1000F somewhere around that pressure, at least in yesterday's weather/road conditions. The eBay seller I got the switch from offers to preset it for the pressure you want for another $1. Adjustment is by a small (5/64"?) allen wrench- Ill...

Minor update, the flame-preheater on my dad's truck is 18mm plug, not 14mm. Second set of spark-plug/npt adapters on order. $15 oops. I've got an adjustable pressure switch, 24v solenoid, Swage-lok 1/4" tubing fittings in 1/8" & 1/4" npt, several 1/4" mini ball-valves to manually shut off the...

Heh. The flame-heater's spark plug hole should be 14mm, if that's a standard military plug. 1/4" NPT to 14mm adapter intended for air-holding engines in place... Those McMaster nozzles are 1/8" npt & taps are cheap. /edit! 18mm plug, not 14mm. There's a 1/8" NPT port on top of the intake elbow...

Cheap enough to get 3 nozzles & play around a bit. I'd be happy with a simple pressure switch, but that EGT/boost gauge you linked looks to be programmable to turn on the valve when egt/boost is over certain values. Now I just have to wait for my next paycheck to play with this.

I'm real curious why he's not marketing it now. I've not found any mention on the current Banks site about methanol injection, but I did find a single Youtube vid of a Banks StraightShot progressive system from 2011. No mention of pre/post turbo installation, or street/strip applications. I'm...

Ow. Never mind- price tags on valves are bad enough. I haven't found one yet that's intended to be electrically variable. I did stumble across something I'd been looking for for a bypass-filtration system- McMaster-Carr's listing for flow control orifices.

Oh, my. I just had one of those moments that will likely be shot down by the price tag of a single oddball component.... or several such. Ever hear of a PID controller, commonly used for precise temperature control? They've gotten cheap enough that people are using them for cooking projects. I...

There's already a set of fittings tapped into the intake manifold that can be used for post-turbo injection. The flame heater's injector fitting is a straight thread & the ether port is NPT. I think there's another port or two hiding on that elbow, but I'm not sure offhand. If you use the...