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I pulled the who thing out. Simpler that way. AND, you get a chance to clean up in there. Have seen two failures where a nut fell into the place where the tank sits. Then moved under the tank. Years of use, wore a hole in the tank. So it never hurts to clean as much as you can.

The trailer IS a HMMWV trailer. That's why the tires are the same as the truck. The trailer is covered in TM 9-2330-392-14&P AND the TM covering the PU, (Power Unit) set. The Part number 20RFH§§DWLP is NOT in the supply system, nor in the TM9-2330-392-14&P. It might be in the TM covering the...

I keep telling everyone, this is not rocket science. Its best to read the book a bit, and take it slow. clean as you go. Lay everything out in a logical sequence. Take your time. Check everything twice, (at least) and reassemble. These machines were made to use and repair by people with little...

I get a cold feeling to even read your post. Do it right, or don't do it at all. The possibility to destroy equipment or kill someone is simply unacceptable.

Charge them up. Then use a battery load tester to check them. One marginal battery is all it takes to abort a start. You can also set your multi meter up to read DC amps, and disconnect the neg battery clamp. Hook the positive test lead to the neg battery terminal , the neg test lead to the neg...

The only way you will ever know if it's fixed, is to run it. And not just an hour. Or you could wait until Hurricane "BIG MOMMA" is 15 minutes out of town, and fire that bad boy up! Course, it's always nicer to watch it fail with the lights on.

Yes, just don't over do it. The pickup could be clogged, but what you really need to do is see if the pump is getting voltage. If it is getting voltage, THEN try the compressed air trick.

No. One side, 126A should be 24 volts. The other, depending on the gen set running or not should be 24 volts, or 0 volts.

If you continue to have the problem, I would put another A2 in it and then run the set on a load test. I was rather hoping it might be the LOP. It's cheaper. Its very rare, for a problem to just "go away", or "fix itself".

One last thing before I go to bed. Unplug the A2, Fault Indicator, and try an start it up. If it runs, change the A2 and see if that fixes it. Have seen this problem before.

Yes, it should. What do you have?

And you have connected it right? Wire 143C goes to pin C and wire 126A goes to NC?

And if you disconnect the LOP. it runs? No idiot lights?

Jump the LOP. But I think you will find that it's bad. The reason the set ran after removing K20 is because K2 is part of the LOP circuit. The two LOP wires go to J7/P7, (pins 4&5) and from there to K20, pin 8 and K16, pin 8.

It will probably continue to run, if you snap the battle short up, before releasing the test/reset button. Try that. Also try an get a reading of just how much oil pressure you do have. You can of course jump the LOP. But it might be telling you the truth. So Check oil pressure before running...

A simple spring loaded single pull, single throw switch would work also.

One of the few things that ALWAYS gets done right in the military, is reusing equipment. The PATRIOT launcher, (built in the 80's) uses an axle and undercarriage from NIKE-HERC system, (Built in the 50's-60's). That's just one example. There are plenty more. In another thread, I showed a link to...

As long as you remember that it has no preheat. All other functions are the same. Has anyone ever called Kraus-Naimer to ask what a new one would cost?

This switch is an authorized replacement for the normal S1, in a emergency situation.

A S1 should not be a problem to find. I believe that I have someplace, in some thread, even listed the producers of the S1. But there are some available. The price, well thats up to you to decide.