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OK, threads merged. Keep this problem in THIS thread. :hammer:

Peter is correct. The same problem in two or more threads is a no go. I will be merging the threads. Where are you taking your voltages readings from? The TB1? But until I do, I would first ensure that the wires are all correctly hooked up, BY THE WIRE DIAGRAM. Normally what I did when I am...

Good Job!! That is TB1. Often when people remove it from the mounting place, a wire gets pushed out of place. Then you have a short. Thats what we would have found if you had removed the K1 wires. Another GOOD way to find a short is this. Fire up the set, at about 23:00. Lights out, all the...

I thought so too. We will see what happens when the input wires are disconnected from K1. Once taped up, and posing not great harm to man or beast, and the set running, if there is a short inside the K1, nothing should happen. If is shorts, I would STILL take out the K1 and open it up. If its...

Slow down here. Leave the three cables off. Take the three off on the other side, and tape them REAL GOOD up. Then start the set, and try to close the K1. lets see if K1 is going to close with no AC voltage on the in or output of the K1.

If you still have a short, then its in the main gen. Would like to work longer, but someone is standing here with a club. Later!

Its 01:22 here, so I am going to bail out. Sounds like a short in the K1, or maybe someone fooled with the TB1. I would take the input wires off the K1 and tape them up. Then start the set and try to turn on the AC voltage. If no short light comes on, then the K1 is shot. Could have water in it...

As of now, I have never seen a demil job.

Also look at the wires from the main gen to see if they have been hot.

Thats what it looks like to me. Work backwards from the load terminals to the input side to the K1, and then see if the TB1 has been fooled with.

When I looked at the video again, the AC meter never moved at all. Or thats what I saw.

Peter, all I see for ACV is what looks like inductive voltage. Not even exciter voltage.

Good, you are in this. I did not enlarge the screen enough. That was the next suggestion. The GFI, (Ground Fault Interupter) right behind your DMM.

I also saw that your hertz meter moved. Normally it will not read without ACV. So here is where you start if you can use a DMM. 1. set the DMM to AC voltage. Stick the two prongs into the 120 volt outlet. Turn on the set. What say the DMM? Do you have 120 volts AC? If so, then the gen set...

I hope you have the set grounded. Here is what I saw. Engine starts well. BUT, the gen set never showed any voltage on the AC meter. Not even initial excitation. And you held the S1 up long enough to excite the main gen IF it could be excited. So, do you have a multi meter and know how to use it?

Have you ever seen it work right? Is it hooked up to a load?

If you reset the fault, will it work right?