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Send me some bad injectors and let me play with them for a bit :) Worse case is I send them back as is :P

the 806B's are modernized with cat electronics. Meh. rather have the 806a or even better a mep-006

You should be able to verify your measurements by installing the shims and redoing the math, making sure your getting closer to your target.

You definatly want to keep your up and down speed fairly quick to avoid over honing in any one spot. Alternatively if you get bored of this your machinist will probably do it for $10 a hole or so.

Hard to tell. His after machine shop pictures look good. Maybe its the angle/camera. Bet the rings seal better than they did before :P

Lookin good. Watch your lint with paper products. Cotton tshirt scraps or Kimtech wipes (amazon!) are perfect for bores and bearings. Primer held up well. Kind of nice, you will be able to assemble it and shoot some paint at it without doing any more metal prep.

Looking much better. I would hone a bit more with the fine grit and just get the scratches out from the course stones. Low/medium speed, smaller angle. Consider it therapeutic :P

its a good cummins # https://quickserve.cummins.com/genuineparts/MECH_00005100112.html

Take some pics of the HG.. Wonder if it can be made out of solid copper. The 002/003 is the folded thin steel with soft lead or maybe asbestos. I used to remember the name for it, but many exhaust pipe connections are the same material.

Sounds like Quincy compressor piston prices. Yikes. I did spend $550 on four forged pistons for my saab engine last year so I feel the pain. I dont see ANY oversize pistons in the DOD systems... Hmm. the 002/003 sure did along with sleeves. Cummins/onan continued to supply parts until...

Whether or not an engine gets bored and rebuilt by the DOD or not depends on the equipment and how new it is mainly. Stuff thats current and servicable and has depot rebuild infrastructure vs having to bid out a contract for rebuilding it (like most recent 002/003 engines). The BIG depots...

As long as he doesnt take 10 months to do it like my machine shop you will be golden. Been waiting on my guy for 11 ish months to finish the shortblock and head for my wifes Saab. what a disaster. Hope your stuff comes out good!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYpzeVNcEG4

Pitting isnt too hot on that 2007. At this point i would in my opinion... hone it, make sure the rings are in spec and sealing well, then throw a head gasket at it and do a compression test. dry and wet. If it passes.. run it. then buy some sleeves and rings for later. Or oversize pistons if...

Yea, less is more on this. Fine grit IMO, just enough to clean it up and break the edges of where the rust was. the '3 stone type' is probably best for the $$. It adapts to different size bores and you can replace the stones, and change grits. Flex hones work good but only for the bore size...

it could be.. IMO warrants at the least a good examination since it was bound up

shoot me the NSN's of the kits you need and I will see what I can dig up. I would plan on atleast a set of rings on the 2007. Good immersion of the pistons in evaporust, rings, and a light hone. Wont be as good as new or anything but you can probably get some good hours out of it.

Looking good :) on the one you plan to retreat. Degrease it before the evaporust. It seems to work better as close to 'pure' as you can get it. So blclean bare steel with rust. Stuff is liquid miracle juice

You might need a few treatments of evaporust. I buy one of these a year or so. SOOO worth it. http://www.rustremover.net/evapo-rust_5-gallons_dehydrated_concentrate_makes_5-gallons.htm Lay some clay in there like a seal in the corner and fill those things up to the top and let em soak. Suck it...

I might be tempted to fill those cylinder with evapo-rust with some light wire brushing. Even get some clay and run a bead around the piston to seal it for a few days. If nothing else it will make dissasembly much easier. Best case is you can clean it, give it a quick flex honing and run it...