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I figured you'd move the spring hangers. Changing to a 1/2-ton frame would be more work than I'd care for. And on the leftover set of springs for an M1009 I have there's definitely more than three three leaves. How many it is I don't remember. Either way, it sounds like you don't really want...

Dearching the springs won't make it a 1/2-ton. But once you have swapped in 1/2-ton axles and springs you should be 95% there. I'd guess that 1" to 1-1/2" lift springs would be about right, and wouldn't even try regular 1/2-ton springs first.

If there truly isn't anyone left that does it, then I'd recommend doing it yourself. It really isn't all that hard. Read up on it and give it a try.

I wish I had time to play along with your little game, which I did for a while, before realizing what you're (most likely) doing. Besides, I completely fail to comprehend what anyone with three or more functional brain cells could possibly need to learn about installing a K-5 lift kit that...

I hope it deters people without basic logical abilities from attempting the simple task of lifting a leaf sprung vehicle with live axles. Also, it's against better knowledge that I reply to these posts, as they reek of "I have nothing better to do than waste my and others' time by pretending to...

I'm glad you appreciate the information. As you may recall, English is not my native language, either, so when I built my Jeep (in Europe, as mentioned earlier) I had to figure out the language, how to buy parts I couldn't make, and many, many other things. And please keep in mind that what I...

Indeed, some of them do. For example, just when I think that you at least have grasped the very basics, you throw something like using a drive shaft for an M1008 into the mix. Also, Ilikemtb999 has answered - very patiently, I might add - several of your questions, yet you seem to ignore the...

Glad to hear that. Surely you can then easily perform what might be the 2-millionth K-5 lift without any further assistance from me.

Yeah, it could be that easy...if you get the right stuff and/or think it through first. But I'm starting to wonder if you even have a torque wrench (mostly for the new U-bolts), let alone a mill to take the taper out of the lift blocks.

Nathan, that would be easy to measure if you invest in a tape measure (which would also help answer your brake hose question). Park on a flat surface, measure the distance from that surface to center of the front U-joint, then the same for the rear U-joint. Lastly, measure between the U-joints...

I ran 35s with minor fender cutting, which most people wouldn't even notice unless they stuck their head in the wheel well. At one point it had something like 36x16.50s on it, but that required some more cutting. Still not exactly obvious. As I've mentioned in the past, a lift doesn't make the...

Let's say that you increase the tire height by 5%. That should theoretically slow your acceleration by the same amount, for example. Is that noticeable? Depends on where and how you drive. I got the impression that you're going strictly for looks, not performance or trail capability, so the...

Yes, a 2-inch difference in tires diameter will theoretically result in a 1-inch lift, but it all depends on how tall the tires really are. Nominal sizes are just that. Issues with bigger tires include decreased performance due to a (normally) higher unsprung weight, and since that extra weight...

Nathan, each vehicle is a little different, so when it comes to drive shaft issues there's no clear answer, because it also depends on what you're willing to put up with. When I built my Jeep (in Europe) it ended up with a 25-degree rear drive shaft angle. According to the Spicer specs, that...

Yeah, I thought that photos would be all over the interweb, including old magazines now on line. Either way, getting parts from America isn't a big deal. Or at least it wasn't. Not much different than Unimog owners here chasing down parts in Europe, really.

I know the feeling, Nathan, having grown up in Europe. But that didn't keep me from buying (then current) magazines to get ideas from. There's a good chance, I think, that you could find someone selling their old collection on eBay over there.

Nathan, you may want to go to your local library. If they have Four Wheeler Magazine, look through the 1980 through 1990 issues. There should be hundreds of photos of lifted Chevys, ranging from two inches to ridiculous, an dozens of installation stories.

Okay, they're 255/85R16s, which is nominally just a hair over 33 inches. On 8-inch rims, by the way, so the hub still sticks out a little past the wheel.

I put 35x12.50R15s on 10" wheels on my first M1009, to be able to drive the freeways around L.A. Sure wasn't the best on the 8-mile stretch of 8% grade along the way home, though. Okay, I think an M1009 is a slug with stock tires, and it was really bad with 35s. A turbo, 700R4, and 4.10 gears...

I know, and it makes me wish I remembered the tire size on the uncut M1008. I think those tires are about 33-1/2, on late model offset wheels. Anyway, they do cause rub - on the drag link link, at full lock. But only when the tire chains are installed. I'll look at the size tomorrow.