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Well, I figured I would try it as it is and see what happens. I started up the truck and I could feel all the lines, to the heater and filter, getting warm. While driving around I had good heat in the cab. When I shut down I checked and all the hoses to the heater and filter were hot and the...

I'm just trying to avoid having to change my water pump, and adding one more talking point to my deuce. ;)

I'm using normal automotive green coolant.

I'm hoping he weighs in here because I'm not sure I have my hoses and engine coolant heater in the ideal locations.

Seems like if I add a valve to block off the heater core inlet then I should get full flow to the filter when the valve is closed and then almost full flow to the heater core when open, with restricted flow to the filter due to the filter's small flow area.

Have a look at this thread: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/11143-cut-open-coolant-filter-deuce.html This filter is cheap insurance for the preservation of your water pump and other engine internals. Filter head: Wix 24019 & Napa 4019 Base: FleetFilter Secure...

Non taken. My post wasn't related to yours.

Yup, I got that. I was just throwing out that this isn't something I completely came up with last night for any fans following along at home.

Not related to the above post, but for the record, that is the location my heater hoses went to before I put in the filter and new hoses, and I did have good heat in the cab. Smelly, but good heat.

I read that set-up will limit flow to the heater core, since the filter will not pass full flow volume, as it is a by-pass filter. I need my cab heat. :D Looking at the filter, the orifice in the center for the return is less than 1/8" diameter.

Can someone verify my plumbing is correct? I did a lot of reading and studying pictures but I couldn't find anything matching mine exactly so I hope I got this right. I have the engine coolant heater installed down low in the water pump by generator. When I say rear or front, I mean in the...