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The plates are beveled into the MRAP wheel. A single 1" grade 5 bolt has 120,000psi shear tinsel strength. So with the 10 bolts, that's 1,200,000 psi of shear strength. You could even loose a few of the bolts and still be very safe. Like mdmorgan said, the stock deuce studs/lugs are the weak...
Fwiw a shot of the factory m35 wheel with a weld. The second shot I'm pointing out where rivets would be on a non welded wheel. I've got a riveted wheel here but it's in the middle of a stack.
Mine still bolt together. There'd be no means to change tires if they didn't. Even from the factory hemtt wheels have welds to hold the outter hoop to the inner o-ring flange. In my examples you are not modifying any of the factory construction of the wheel. If you look close on the inside...
You realize the factory deuce wheels are also welded or in some cases only riveted together?
Have a look at my recentered hemtts. You'll get a better understanding of what I mentioned doing.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?64512-recentered-hemtt-wheel-install.html
IMHO, I'd trust a double welded plate more than I'd trust a "adapter" plate. More fasteners = more failure points. Unless you're thinking about keeping them stock for a MRAP later on?
Wait, worded that wrong. You should get them to cut a shoulder in the radius of the adapter plate that would match the ID of the wheel. That would allow the plate to center in the opening and provide an area to weld front and rear of the plate. That's how my hemtts on my deuce are done...
Heck most of the work is already done for you. Just get someone that recenters hemtt wheels to make you a set of centers with their OD that matches the ID opening. Then weld them in.