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Sorry but I don't have access to an -006a right now; I have done a couple of these in the past, and even shot some video of my last one intending to do a "how to" on the 006. But, the video didn't turn out and I haven't had another one find its way into my shop since then. The last one that I...

The conversion is similar but not exactly the same. With the -006a you can just do the 12 lead re-wire without moving control wires, but there are a few funny meter readings if you do it that way. I have converted a couple of -006's but didn't write down the wire movements. I plan to make...

Looks like you have some healthy engines on those 004's...both the single phase and 3 phase tests you ran showed some nice power numbers. With regards to the breaker; it is actually just a contactor and not a conventional thermal circuit breaker. It is designed to trip at 130% of rated load at...

I have had at least 30 emails, PM's, and youtube messages from people asking how to convert the 804/5/6 to split phase. I've never had the chance to work on one! Kinda makes me want to track one down to at least look at its "guts." I actually used my -004a in 3 phase for backup power to my...

I would be interested to have this information as well; but keep in mind that pulling 30kw from 2 legs of a wye generator at 208v produces significantly more phase current than pulling 30kw from a zigzag split phase generator; you'll be pushing your generator head even further beyond what it was...

Now that I'm home and at my computer, I can write a detailed response :) I'm sorry, but I have to disagree with you. I can, and HAVE obtained the FULL RATED POWER OUTPUT of the MEP-004a and MEP-006a generators after conversion to split phase. This is 60kw for the -006a and 15kw for the -004a...

Your comment falls into the "mostly technically correct but doest fully apply to this situation" category. The generator ACTUAL real power capacity os not diminished after the conversion to single phase. I will sit down at the computer later tonight to write a detailed explanation about the...

It wasn't so much your writing style as it was the content of your message, but I appreciate your willingness to conduct the test. Allow me to explain why I took exception to your comments. Had this interaction occurred on youtube, Pirate4x4, or any number of other forums I would have taken...

I don't know why you feel the need to, in a roundabout way, call me a liar but that is what you have done. I don't mind people pointing out my mistakes (I have made a few, and will likely continue to do so), questioning my process, or disagreeing with my opinions but when a person questions my...

Thanks! I really do try to keep up with my various online projects...but I have a lot of irons in the fire! I have a couple hundred youtube videos up, am a technical editor for Zukiworld, husband and father, owner of 2 businesses, assistant fire chief on my local fire department, and more...

Sorry about my absence from the forums recently! I have been overwhelmed with emails, PM's, and phone calls from my various youtube videos and online projects. Combine that with my 2 businesses and family life, and I have been forced to let my generator hobby slip a little bit! My conversion...

The frequency meter will not read accurately until you have voltage; what you were seeing was not anything of note... The ammeter and load meter won't read anything unless there is a load on the set. Since you don't see any voltage during field flash, you probably don't have a major problem...

By "deflection" I was asking if you saw any movement on any of the meters during field flash... If you're concerned that you might have burned something up, remove the jumper wire and re-install it between t12 and the neutral bus (just the way it was wired when it was stock). Return all of the...

You don't need to add the resistors; their function is just to bring the meter readings and safety trip setpoints back into spec. Without installing them, the meters will read too high...not a problem unless you need the full rated capacity of the generator.

It is most likely still configured for 120/208v three phase. The buss bar is probably riveted to the underside of the reconnection board (you'll need to remove the reconnection plate, and then remove the 4 stand-offs that hold the bottom section down, then pull/twist it so you can see the...

You didn't notice any deflection, even while holding the start switch up in start? The next step would be to move X12P16N from T12 to one of the adjacent posts, then do the cautious startup...

I distinctly remember moving leads off of T12, but I didn't make a note of it since I thought it was on the video! Proceed at your own risk, but here's what I would do: move X12EG16N from T12 to one of the adjacent "neutral" posts. Leave X12P16N in place for now. Fire up the set, but be...

Unfortunately, I pulled up my video footage from the last conversion and it didn't turn out. Not trying to withhold info at all, but I honestly can't recall exactly which leads were moved. There were just 2 of them from one terminal, but I didn't write it down and must have neglected to hit...

35 ohm is just fine; it will get you VERY close, well within meter tolerances. 38 ohm is the "perfect" size; but for real-life purposes, 35 ohm is just as good. You would never know any difference...

YES...this is critical, or you are supplying improper voltage to some components in the exciter...though the generator does produce single phase 120/240 if you only do the zigzag mod, you will certainly stress/damage components if the control circuitry isn't re-wired. I ran my last conversion...