mep002a injector pump?

Thats great!!

Subscribed.

I'm going to have to go through this whole post another time or two. Last week, I started in on my 2nd MEP 002A that I bought last year prior to deploying. I have one up and running after fixing the same oil leak that was mentioned here. I waited almost a month for those parts but SEARS did come through--THANK YOU to whoever started that thread!!

I was hoping to post here earlier in the week. I was able to get my fuel stop moving with the pump on, but no dice. I have fuel flowing through the IP and back to the tank, but nothing out the injector lines. I had my nose in the manuals earlier in the week, then that thing that pays for my new found addiction (work) : ) took over--that and a quick trip to DE to pick another -002A--and well, here we are.

So, I'll reread the 24P and get the IP off then see where I'm at. I'll try and not ask all the same questions over again, but my generator maintenance background was most -10 &-20 level work--even though I was in a General Support Unit : /

Wish me luck.

Give up on the 24P and download the -12 and -34 from Speddmon's post at the top of the opening page. Links to all of the manuals are in his signature and they are FREE downloads. 99% of your questions are addressed there. 24P is only for identifying parts AFTER the problem is analyzed. Analysis comes from the other manuals.
Jerry

BTW: Gaspasser, Thanks for your service.
Jerry

storeman said:

BTW: Gaspasser, Thanks for your service.
Jerry

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You're quite welcome!

I just checked, and I do have the -12 and -34 downloaded. I know I read through them (the pertinent sections) looking for answers to my no fuel problem. You're right I misspoke, it's the -34 I'll need to take the IP off. I must have used the 24P to get the part # for my last repair.

Charge on and good luck! BTW: you might check the infamous "Bowtie" being addressed in this thread

"http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?104989-MEP-002a-Blue-Smoke"

Sounds like an internal IP problem. Lots of threads about them. Check posts by member "luckydog" He did a great piece on addressing and troubleshooting IP problems and will likely chime in with a link to the appropriate thread.

Jerry

I learned how not to take IP apart

Well, along the lines of measure twice--cut once. I should've paid closer attention to just one of the references I was using, and read it through a time or two more than I did. I have the AMBAC pdf and the -34 TM. Going back and forth, I managed to get it apart and as you can see, I have the same broken drive as the OP. However, I have the plunger out but I was not able to get the spring ring plunger retaining rings off (that's the part I screwed up--I realize it shouldn't come apart like that). I don't have the pressing tool, and even when assembled as per the AMBAC pdf those parts don't sit very high (like the AMBAC manual shows). I'm not sure how I would get a magnet in there to get the center piece out. (I was able to fashion magnetic pencil out of an alignment tool and some magnet pieces). So, did everyone get the pressing tool, or what was the trick if you used a home spun tool?

Until I get that apart, I'm marking time. Also, is calling AMBAC, as was referenced earlier, the quickest way to get the new drive piece and some new O-rings? I would prefer not to wait a month for SEARS.com to deliver.

Thanks

now its been a little bit since i had mine apart but if i remember correctly if the drive washer is broken like your the pump will come right apart. you dont need the tool. the tool will be needed when you reassemble though since you will be replacing with a new drive washer. when i put mine back together i just set the little 2 halves of the locking ring in place and pushed down on the spring using a deepwell socket then the retainer halves just fell into place. it worked just like the tool.

Jimc said:

now its been a little bit since i had mine apart but if i remember correctly if the drive washer is broken like your the pump will come right apart. you dont need the tool. the tool will be needed when you reassemble though since you will be replacing with a new drive washer. when i put mine back together i just set the little 2 halves of the locking ring in place and pushed down on the spring using a deepwell socket then the retainer halves just fell into place. it worked just like the tool.

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I guess this is why I don't do puzzles much--I have the plunger out of the HH and I still can't get the end off. : / But, it's good to know I can put it back together with a socket. That was my first alternate tool I tried when I came to taking it apart. It'll have to wait til Wed now. I have a call shift at work tomorrow.

hmmm, when that drive washer is broken the plunger shaft should just fall out of the main gear then the spring and retainer and whatever else should just fall off with it... i think. like i said im going off memory but i know for sure i didnt need any tools to take anything apart when my washer was broke. it was only putting it back together.

wait a minute. looking closer at your first pic it looks like your gear came off but the plunger shaft is still stuck in the pump. there is nothing holding the plunger shaft into the pump body. it should just come right out

sorry ignore this post. bad link

here is a good reference pic for the pump. the shaft should just slide right out of the pump body.

Jimc said:

here is a good reference pic for the pump. the shaft should just slide right out of the pump body.

View attachment 418179

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Sorry everyone, I have the plunger out of the pump body. I put it back in just to hold it for the pic. And you are correct, it slides right out--well, it's a tight fit as it should be, but it does move freely.

It's the captive end on the plunger I haven't been able to get apart.

put the plunger back in and support it from the rear, then the plunger button will sit proud like in the diagram.. you should start from the gear end of the IP to disassemble.
Jerry

thats what im forgetting. the timing button. i put an arrow on your pic. there is a small retaining ring there holding the timing button in. take a pick or small screwdriver and remove that ring. the timing button will come out and you will see the end of the plunger shaft. there is another retainer in there holding the main spring retainer to the plunger. just like the retainer on a set of intake or exh valves. go back and look at the diagram pic i posted you will see both rings and how it goes together.

Jimc said:

thats what im forgetting. the timing button. i put an arrow on your pic. there is a small retaining ring there holding the timing button in. take a pick or small screwdriver and remove that ring. the timing button will come out and you will see the end of the plunger shaft. there is another retainer in there holding the main spring retainer to the plunger. just like the retainer on a set of intake or exh valves. go back and look at the diagram pic i posted you will see both rings and how it goes together.

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Ahhh, so that's what I was missing. I'll give that try--Thanks!!

From the reading I was doing I was under the impression it was downward pressure on the larger ring (numbered 47) with whatever that special tool is that would allow you take out the center pin.

it is downward pressure to reveal the two half moons so you can take them out with a pic or magnet but, first you have to remove the "Jesus" clip/ring. Put a rag around the pump so the ring does't fly away. Very hard to find on the floor, hence its nickname. Can't put downward pressure on to remove the half moons unless the shaft is supported, otherwise the spring just sinks in the housing and shaft goes with it, making the half moons inaccessible.
Jerry

If you have trouble getting it apart after you get the timing button off, I have a way thats easy, and I can provide pics if needed.

Not sure if this is the right place to ask this question but here goes, I have a TP5A4DC flood light set and I need either a new IP or the parts to ebuild the unit this ids the info from the IP Diesel/Kiki 3480024 NP-PFR2K70/1NP23 104107-2170. Any help would be great.

You will get better response to your question if you start a new post. Lots of great helping folks on this site.....