PEASHOOTER's M109A3 CAMPER Build Thread

ODFever said:

I also love the way your M109 looks with the MRAP wheels. Do they affect your top speed at all? Does the extra weight of each wheel make any differences with the way the truck stops/handles?

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Yes, I gained about 10mph. I now drive 55 on the highway at around 2100-2200 rpm I think. Being that the tires are taller but the gearing is the same, it did feel underpowered after the new wheels and having the trailer attached. I turned up the fuel 4 flats (2/3 turn) and it helped. I did have one stop that made my rear pucker though. (our camper was loaded and we had the trailer attached, but not trailer brakes) I was going 55 on a 65mph highway and as soon as I got to one of those signs that says "Prepare to stop when flashing" , it started to flash. I downshifted and stepped on the brakes and finally stopped right at the light, but it was close. Since I've only driven this truck, I cant really compare it to others with how well things work. I've inspected all the brakes and they are fine, but I dont know if it stops as well as it should or not. Either way I am going to overhaul them completely next spring. In the meantime I am going to try hooking up the trailer brakes to see if that will work. I'm not sure it will since the trailer is so light having only a few hundred pounds inside usually besides the 500 lb cargo box and the extra weight of the MRAPS.
I'm sure the MRAPS hinder stopping since they are a lot of rotational weight, but the ride is very nice. I've never used the trailer brakes before, can anyone tell me if I need both the service and emergency valves open for the brakes to operate or will they work with just the service gladhand opened?

For a stock M105a2 just the service side. The emergency valve should be off unless you connect a brake hose to it. The M105a2c would require both to be hooked up and turned on. I'm assuming you only have one air line coming from the trailer?

Peashooter,
WOW! I am beyond... Holy sh*#! I am really impressed! How in the world did you afford all this?

moving chicane said:

For a stock M105a2 just the service side. The emergency valve should be off unless you connect a brake hose to it. The M105a2c would require both to be hooked up and turned on. I'm assuming you only have one air line coming from the trailer?

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Thanks for the info, it was overhauled in 04 and it has 2 hoses. I just tried it out with both hooked up, it works well but I just had to replace the drain valve on that cute little 105 air tank (someone must have hit it and broke it off). The one glad hand rubber seal is leaking too.

Somebody else in this thread said the same thing, but I'll say it too. I don't really want an M109, until I see guys like you, maccus, zout, etc do these amazing builds.

You've done a ton of work and it's an amazing ride.

You NEED to bring this thing to Ga. and park it next to Rayzer's amazing M146 camper and charge admission for tours!

3rdaavbn said:

Peashooter,
WOW! I am beyond... Holy sh*#! I am really impressed! How in the world did you afford all this?

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Thanks! Also I know my posts get "wordy" but if you read a couple you will start seeing a pattern of "Craigslist","eBay", & "scrap". Most things I bought were either used or I paid pennies on the dollar for them. The few expensive items I bought were paid for by selling other things. It definitely had more time than money into it.

great build up! hats off!

Peashooter - I noticed that in your thread you mentioned that buying an awning was too expensive and you rigged up some camo netting for shade, but it provides no protection from rain. Have you considered buying a 10'x10' collapsible canopy that you could transport in your trailer? I bought a King Canopy years ago to use at MV static displays. It has a sturdy aluminum frame with a UV resistant cover and sides. It was less than $200. I have no idea what they sell for now.

Hope this idea helps you.

wow.. really cool build

ODFever said:

I also love the way your M109 looks with the MRAP wheels. Do they affect your top speed at all? Does the extra weight of each wheel make any differences with the way the truck stops/handles?

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peashooter said:

.......I did have one stop that made my rear pucker though. (our camper was loaded and we had the trailer attached, but not trailer brakes) I was going 55 on a 65mph highway and as soon as I got to one of those signs that says "Prepare to stop when flashing" , it started to flash. I downshifted and stepped on the brakes and finally stopped right at the light, but it was close.... In the meantime I am going to try hooking up the trailer brakes to see if that will work......

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By the way I replaced the gladhand seals and am now using the 105 brakes too. It made a big difference in stopping distance, havent locked them up yet either (something I've read was common when the trailer wasnt heavily loaded).

Nice build! These things take some talent to make into an RV.

I see you used the same insulation as I did. It makes a huge difference! Combined with the snow roof it doesn't feel like an oven anymore.

Clay James said:

Nice build! These things take some talent to make into an RV.

I see you used the same insulation as I did. It makes a huge difference! Combined with the snow roof it doesn't feel like an oven anymore.

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Thanks Clay. I probably got the idea for the foil foam from you! I know I was following your build when you did the conversion. I don't remember the snow roof you mentioned however? Does that mean you just painted the roof white, or did you add a second stand-off type roof leaving an air gap?

It's an elastic RV roof coating. It seals all the seams and the white reflects the heat. I can put my hand on it in the sun and it's cool to the touch but the paint next to it is blazing hot. It get too hot to touch on the really hot days, but it's still better than the paint.

Clay James... Any ideas on adding some dye or something to drop the color to gray?

I did have some roof coat tinted a sand/yellow before. Used it on a small trailer roof years ago.
I think a real paint place could prob do it for you.

Nice job on your truck. Attention to detail is right smart. You mentioned Scott- I too have worked with him. Good guy and a great resource.
pete

Super great job! Lots of good idea's. May steal some from you for my 109. Love all of the pics too.

Thanks for the nice compliments. I have a couple more pictures I'll get up soon. My current fuel line from the primary filter to the IP is crushed in a few spots so I'm making a 1 piece braided stainless hose to replace the current 2 piece hose. I'm also having some dot approved braided stainless brake hoses made since our only option now is either Chinese hoses or NOS (old) ones. I can have extras made if anyone is interested.
Also as an FYI, napa still has some USA made brake wheel cylinder rebuild kits available. I suspect they won't be around much longer though since I don't think there are any brake parts still manufactured in the usa for our trucks. I think the part number from napa is up45. (I don't have any problem with foreign mfg since I am a capitalist, but anyone who has put axle boots, brake hoses, or any other rubber parts that were Asian made will understand why you want USA made parts in those instances.... The Asian replacements only last a year or 2 before rotting away)

What do you want for the braided stainless brake hoses and could you make extra fuel line?

BAZYRKYR said:

What do you want for the braided stainless brake hoses and could you make extra fuel line?

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I'll get some firm prices this week when I pick up the hoses (they had to order a few fittings). The brake hoses would be about double the price of the stock Chinese ones... So about $50 ea or $250 for a full set. The one piece SS braid fuel line probably more like $75