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Thread: H-1 Ground Support Heater, NSN 4520-01-056-4269

  1. #11
    Colonel Weller's Avatar
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    If you have original or old gaskets I may be able to match them.
    O Lord, won't you buy me a diesel Humvee. My friends all drive Teslas, that won't work for me. Worked hard all my lifetime, no help from the DMV. So Lord, won't you buy me a diesel Humvee.

  2. #12
    4 Star General Wire Fox's Avatar
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    I pulled the fuel pump assembly open...the strainer and gasket looks like the spitting image of the part they're still selling, so I bet they're still compatible. There unfortunately wasn't much to clean off the strainer and the inside of the pump also looked pretty clean. After reassembly and repriming, it seemed like it was running great...engine was stable-running for several minutes with no signs of surging or dark smoke. It even handled the burner solenoid opening just fine and didn't cause any issue to the engine...then I tried to adjust the throttle and it all came back down to its old behavior. Surging, black smoke, loss of power, and stalling. This time, I was measuring the temperatures as I was going along and I found that the head held a very steady 180F and the exhaust was around 300-350F on the surface. As soon as the surging started, temperatures rose up. The exhaust peaked over 500F and the head peaked around 220F.

    Black smoke? Elevated EGT? Inconsistent RPM? Loss of power? This now instead must be between the injection pump or the injector itself from over-fueling (probably something is sticking, or the nozzle is clogged). I see a very expensive replacement injector on eBay right now, a rather cheap injector nozzle on eBay in Germany, and a few moderately priced injection pumps on eBay as well-everything in brand new condition. Obviously cleaning and repair is the best choice to save cash, but it's nice to think that I might be able to get the right parts if something is worn too far out of spec.

    EDIT:. I almost forgot I took a video. Everybody likes moving pictures. Here's a 30 second clip of the engine pretending to be nice, just before I adjusted the throttle and it all went to ****.
    Last edited by Wire Fox; 05-03-2019 at 13:33.
    1994 M998A1, 2-dr, 6.5L GEP NA

    Checkout my build thread! http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...ild-in-Indiana

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  4. #13
    4 Star General Wire Fox's Avatar
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    New filter installed, but didn't make the difference (it makes me feel better having a proper fuel filter with water separator). Injector removed and it indeed had a lot of carbon build-up on it. I did some cleaning, but couldn't get the bugger disassembled. As it was, it barely came out of the engine. I locked the injector into a vice, put large wrench on the cap that hold the injector together, and wailed on the wrench for 20 minutes with a 3lb mallet and didn't get it to budge even a bit. I'm going to take a look at the injection pump before I double down on beating the injector apart. As it is, if somebody has a Hatz 40006600 / BOSCH 0432297022 injector they'd like to sell for a reasonable price, I'd happily hear you out! ...or, if anybody knows tricks for opening up old injectors, I'd like that, too.
    1994 M998A1, 2-dr, 6.5L GEP NA

    Checkout my build thread! http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...ild-in-Indiana

  5. #14
    dumpsterlandingfromorbit! gimpyrobb's Avatar
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    Put it in a pot of atf and set it on 5he stove for an hour prior to wailing on it.

  6. #15
    4 Star General Wire Fox's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gimpyrobb View Post
    Put it in a pot of atf and set it on 5he stove for an hour prior to wailing on it.
    That's sounds like a trick I can believe in-and I think I've seen that before. Sounds like a stop by Goodwill for a cheap pot is in order. Good thing I already have a butane burner for outside, or my wife would murder me...

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    1994 M998A1, 2-dr, 6.5L GEP NA

    Checkout my build thread! http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...ild-in-Indiana

  7. #16
    4 Star General Wire Fox's Avatar
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    Didn't tear into the injector yet, but I did just strip off the entire blower, burner, and heat exchanger assembly to inspect and clean those. This also happens to make it remarkably easier to access and work on the engine, as I basically now have three sides with absolutely unfettered access.

    I took a couple of photos of the data plate, mostly to make it easier to sit at a computer and recheck diagrams without having to go grab that humongous steel casing to look at the data plate. They're attached here, in case anyone has one of these with an illegible data plate. As a side note, that electrical schematic sucks to read! I've never dealt with one that had all the connections overlap and just designate their endpoints out by number. A few leads are very confusing as a result...

    Lastly, I've officially filed a FOIA request for TO 35E7-2-11-1. Some helpful folks have tried to find the manual for me but didn't have it available, commerical resources have rejected my request on the grounds that it's restricted, so I've now gone straight to the top to see if the USAF HQ will authorize release of the manual.IMG_20190608_202949.jpgIMG_20190608_203004.jpg

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    Last edited by Wire Fox; 06-10-2019 at 14:45.
    1994 M998A1, 2-dr, 6.5L GEP NA

    Checkout my build thread! http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...ild-in-Indiana

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  9. #17
    Corporal
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    Have you looked at Herman Nelson heaters on line? very similar to your unit.

  10. #18
    4 Star General Guyfang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redlight View Post
    Have you looked at Herman Nelson heaters on line? very similar to your unit.
    When you use the phrase, "Herman Nelson", you have to also use the model number. For me, a "Herman Nelson is heater renowned for blowing up in your face, heater from the 50-70's time frame. Most folks know a completely different Hermon Nelson today.

  11. #19
    4 Star General Wire Fox's Avatar
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    I feel dumb on the schematic. I posted here before about the patent being out there in full text. I completely overlooked that the 10th page (Figure 14) is a traditional schematic that meshes up with what I'm interpreting in the dataplate version, but is actually reasonably easy to follow, plus everything is labeled.

    I can also confirm: my unit is wired wrong. There's indeed a 12V tap between the batteries that's NOT present on my unit. I'll have to do some careful tracing to make sure that it's not anything to do with someone having modified the unit to be all 24V components (or had installed a small converter), but beyond that, it's a clear indication that the flame controller will never work until I correct the wiring (if it's not already destroyed). Another thing is the wrong switch is on my unit. The schematic clearly shows a three-position switch (start, run, off), but my unit is only a two-position (start is momentary, run is constant-you kill it by cutting fuel). Off is just no-connection, so it's not fundamentally different, but it would leave room for there to be some parasitic draw that otherwise wouldn't be possible.

    EDIT: I'm looking at this schematic and trying to further understand the purpose of this part of the circuit. In the green-highlighted section, it's 12-14V coming in from the rear battery. In the orange-highlighted area, we have 24-28V coming in from the pair of batteries. When switched on, these two circuits join in parallel to form a voltage divider. I'll have to go and measure the resistor to know for-sure what's supposed to be happening here, but right now, it looks like either there's a very odd system to have 12-14V, or they need some value between 12V and 28V and this was determined to be the simplest way to get that voltage level. Anybody have any hunches?
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    Last edited by Wire Fox; 06-12-2019 at 17:22.
    1994 M998A1, 2-dr, 6.5L GEP NA

    Checkout my build thread! http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...ild-in-Indiana

  12. #20
    4 Star General Guyfang's Avatar
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    It doesn't have a vent position? To vent the burner chamber? Is the flame controller a photo electric device?

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