Torque Rod/Dogbone Replacement, the easy way

I picked up a truck that the right rear torque bar (I call it a dogbone) was busted in half. I had limited tools and no heat source available.

As most of you know the center nut is easy to remove and swing a BFH at. The ones at the axles are a different story. Section 7-22 of TM 9-2320-361-20 has the instructions but it's not very user friendly.

Barrman and I where talking about the easiest way to remove the old unit and install a new one. What we came up with is to remove the center nut as per the instructions, but on the rear , just remove the 4 nuts and washers from the mounting plate and remove the bottom plate and rod as a unit. That way you can work on it out in the open.

So in less that 45 minutes (most of the time was setting out and putting away the tools) I had removed the broken torque rod and replaced it. I did have a good torque rod/mounting plate from a truck I parted out.

Here is a brief recap.

1 - Remove front nut and use sledge hammer to remove the pin.
2 - Remove 4 nuts and washers from bottom mounting plate
2a-Remove the other end of torque rod if needed
3 - Jack up the springs to proper level
4 - Use a ratchet strap to pull the axles together
5 - Attach front portion of torque rod
6 - Use another jack to position the bottom mounting plate
7 - Replace all nuts and washers
8 - Check brake line for damage (mine was busted)
9 - Go for a drive down I-35 in a topless Deuce w/o earplugs
10- Go get a cold one.....

Warthog out................

Look Mom, No top......

I love ANY plan that involves a ratchet strap!! Well done!!

Glad that worked out so well for you.

And all this done in the DRMO yard no less!!! Wow. More guts than I.

NDT said:

And all this done in the DRMO yard no less!!! Wow. More guts than I.

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Oh wow! I missed that part. Must be a very kewl GL rep there.

Excellent job! Looks like the dog bone ran into a parked gl fork truck!

NDT said:

And all this done in the DRMO yard no less!!! Wow. More guts than I.

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Had the blessing of the GL rep as they needed the space and wanted the truck gone.

I was expecting to tow it out but was excited that I could drive it out. I love it when a plan comes together.....

I have the same problem with a deuce I'm getting ready to pick up. Your pics could have been taken looking at my truck. I know I won't be able to work on it in the GL yard. I was told that when I load it up, the rear wheels are hard to turn (back end might have to be lifted). There is about a 1" gap between the broken ends of the dogbone. Is that a big enough space to jam the gears in the rear rear differential? I plan on ratchet-strapping a piece of 4 x 4 between the rear axles to space them the right distance apart before putting it on the flatbed, and am hoping that will remedy the problem.
Thanks for the article, and especially the pictures.

I have known guys to just pull the axles together with a ratchet strap and drive it that way.

I would remove the drive shaft between the rear axles too relieve any binding.

And if all else fails you can remove the rear drive shaft, rear tires and chain up the axle. Hammer did this to one of his trucks.

Warthog

Or, when dogbone breaks, call Joe, sounds easier to me.

This is just what a buddy and fellow SS member just thought of doing to fix mine. I tore the torque rod right off the rubber at a Boyscout camp doing volunteer work of all things. We used a big c-clamp and a peice of steel to try and push the parts together long enough to get my rig back home. It worked. Made it about 6 miles and it actually got the rubber 70% of the way back on. I just need to find a cheep source for replacement ends.

Oh, I had just inspected those rods this spring. I was just driving down a straight road when I felt something not duece like and a POP noise. Not good. I say just replace them if they don't look perfect.

I was wondering who won the deuce with the broken torque rod a month or two ago. It's great when a gamble pays off. Well done

hey when ya'll get tired of replacing rubber just weld a 4" washer on the end of the broken bushing and it works fine.

Reading threw some threads on here. I need to replace all my dogbones on my 5 ton. what is your guys trick to replacing the top ones right by the spring pack? how are you getting the nut off without having to take the whole spring pack off? The axle ends and bottom dont look like they are going to be that bad.

I replaced torque rod on fuel trailer I used a punch and a hammer .there is a little more room then on the trailer then on the truck . I will be replacing the torque rods on my 5 ton this winter and will be faced with the same problem as you . when changing the bottom rods I welded a short piece of chain to the center of the stud then loosened the nuts till all most off then used a ratcheting load binder to pull them toward each other then hit the mount with a hammer . when one side lets go snug up the load binder and do the other side .

Greeniron2010 said:

Reading threw some threads on here. I need to replace all my dogbones on my 5 ton. what is your guys trick to replacing the top ones right by the spring pack? how are you getting the nut off without having to take the whole spring pack off? The axle ends and bottom dont look like they are going to be that bad.

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anything but a wrecker, you can use jacks under the axle or between the frame and the axle to pivoit the springs out of the way, unbolt the top axle end from the axle, the wrecker you have to remove the walking beam, it is one heavy hunk of steel

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Greeniron2010 said:

Reading threw some threads on here. I need to replace all my dogbones on my 5 ton. what is your guys trick to replacing the top ones right by the spring pack? how are you getting the nut off without having to take the whole spring pack off? The axle ends and bottom dont look like they are going to be that bad.

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Darryl,
You're a hard person to get a hold of, regarding your offer, and the deal that was made. It would be nice to hear back from you.

Thats pretty cool. Do you have a trick for the upper left rod?