Pulled the transmission today!!!

This morning I got started pulling my transmission to clean the clutch and flywheel after the transmission leaked all over the place from being overfull.

BOY AM I GLAD I DID!!!!! There are people who said that it would be fine by just spraying brake cleaner in the access hatch and cleaning up the clutch that way. I did that on the way home from Sparta with the truck and it worked. But I am here to tell you, especially if it's a GL truck or anything unknown. You're better off to take the extra work and pull the transmission if need be.

I started the day by draining the fluid from the tranny, and marking the transmission to transfer case propeller shaft for removal. I also marked the propeller shaft going to the front axle, I probably could have gotten away without removing it, but I felt better taking one side of it off and setting it out of the way. After that I pulled the passenger seat and tunnels out of the cab. This makes it a lot easier to work on the transmission to transfer shaft.

The first reason I'm glad I decided to undertake this project was very evident when I puled the transmission to transfer shaft. ALL 8 BOLTS IN THE SHAFT FLANGES WERE LOOSE!!!! THe truck has a brand new, or at least newer transfer case in it, I guess someone decided they didn't need to tighten up the propeller shaft bolts since it's so short. After that I was ready to pull the tranny. I got my lift rigged and pulled the transmission loose and lowered it to the ground, where I got my next surprise. One of the spring retainers for the throw-out bearing was lying on top of the access panel when I opened it up on the way back from Sparta. The other one was gone as well. Luckily it was stuck to the side of the flywheel in a little of the muck left behind from the oil and clutch dust. Then I looked at the pressure plate to remove it. About half of the bolts in the pressure plate were LOOSE AS WELL!! So I removed the pressure plate and looked at the clutch disk...IT WAS TRASHED!!! apparently, the transmission is a fresh rebuild or fairly new as well, and when they put it on the decided not to look at the clutch, I wish they would have!!! I spent the next hour and a half trying to track down a truck shop that would have one on hand so I could put this thing back together. I did manage to find a civilian part number and manufacturer for the clutch disk, but nobody had one, so I had to order one and now I wait!

After the phone calls to find a clutch disk, I pulled the flywheel off to change the rear main seal while I was this far along. Low and behold, I must have an older version of the LDT because it does not have the rear main carrier like other people have mentioned. If it was not for my years of experience working in industrial maintenance, and dealing with f...f...fouled up situations I would have asked myself, "What the he!! do I do to get this thing out of here?" But I had some tricks up my sleeve, so it came out whether it wanted to or not, Luckily the crank looked really clean and smoth, so the new one went back on easily, then the flywheel was remounted. Now I'm at a standstill until Monday, when the new clutch disk will arrive (hopefully).

Don't let anybody talk you out of doing a major job like this just because your clutch isnt slipping. You never know what you'll find wrong with an older truck. Especially one that you don't know the maintenance history of!

more pictures

Jackshaft bolts are notorious for being loose. Sounds like you beat the gremlins on this one. Wasn't hard to get out at all was it?

Not much left of the clutch, if you get in a bind let me know, I live in Lancaster OH.

I wish more pepole would do better checks on there truck before driving them. You got lucky and did it right.

Recovry4x4 said:

Jackshaft bolts are notorious for being loose. Sounds like you beat the gremlins on this one. Wasn't hard to get out at all was it?

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No it wasn't too bad pulling it apart. But the kick in the pants about the shaft bolts is the 4 on the front axle shaft I removed. I had to get the breaker bar and a cheater just to get them loose!!

kipman said:

Not much left of the clutch, if you get in a bind let me know, I live in Lancaster OH

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Thanks for the offer, but so far the only bind I'm in is waiting for the new clutch disk to arrive!

I have got a new clutch assembly, spare, you could just drive up and get it.
I could take you on a M813 recovery while you are here.

Nice work.
Now I will have to check my bolts or it will drive me crazy.

"The first reason I'm glad I decided to undertake this project was very evident when I puled the transmission to transfer shaft. ALL 8 BOLTS IN THE SHAFT FLANGES WERE LOOSE!!!!"

Yep. I found all 8 on one of my trucks loose, too. It seems to be a problem.

drgreg, that sounds like a great offer. If I had won that deuce cargo cover at McCoy tonight I would definitely take you up on it.

Those flange bolts must be a problem with a lot of people's trucks. I think they don't get tightened up properly because they are a pain to get to. But if you pull the tunnels and take your time and work at it you can easily get them tight enough where they will not come back loose. I guess the mechanics in the motor pools don't get paid by the hour like I do.

I use a little blue locktite on the flywheel and clutch bolts. Should have seen my buddy cussing trying to remove the driveshaft bolts I installed... They were tight, and yes, you can get the jackshaft bolts tight, but takes some wiggling.

I love the blue loctite. In the steel mill, that's our best friend. I put the flywheel bolts back in the same way I got them out...with the 3/4 impact. They seem to be the only bolts that were truely tight!

ok to be clear the jack shaft is the short drive shaft between the transmission and the transfer case externally correct? im currently nutting and bolting my duece with the blue loctite so i would hate to have to pull the trans just to check bolts my truck has 600 hrs on it since rebuild in 92 and has a new trans and transfer still in red primer so far no drive shafts are loose the only problem iv been having is it wont hold air in the tanks for more than 2 hrs but a little soap in a spray bottle should find the leaks i know the red gladhand leaks needs a new valve and the pass side inner axle seal leaks good about a qt a week so im gathering part numbers for that rebuild and those slick yellow? silicone boots i need this truck ready to go anywhere anytime in the whole nation for shtf type deal

thanks

josh

The nuts are one time use!They have a nylon insert in them.Hit an industrial supply house and get new ones.Might want to go ahead and get new bolts too.Not much more.The nylon hardens over time and lets go.Plus after the first time used the bolt "Threads" the nylon lock so you don't get teh holding power the 2nd use.

Spedmom, you might want to get the flywheel cut and also a new pressure plate and throwout bearing. I was always told whenever you do a clutch that you should also replace the pressure plate and cut the flywheel. Just my 2 cents

maccus said:

VERY IMPORTANT !!! I know I am repeating what has been said before in this thread. But all you new guys need to check the bolts on the short "jack shaft" all the time cause it might well work its self loose more than once. Always replace the bolt and nut cause the threads on the bolt will stretch when being torqued and the locking capabilities of the nut is good for only one use. Very important cause if you ever have a shaft come off while driving you are in deep smelly stuff. Most of the time when the shaft is working its self loose you will notice a vibration at certain speeds that was not there before. And for a truck you are recovering check the shaft bolts at the same time as you check the oil. It takes two long handle 3/4 inch open/box end wrenches

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Very good advice sir! I will check tonight. Noob question though, the jack shaft is the small shaft between the transmission and transfer case, correct?

(These forums are so knowledgeable.)

Yes jinx, that's the shaft we're all referring to.

G-Force, What you were told is more a rule of thumb and not really necessary. It's only absolutely necessary to replace the pressure plate if the pressure plate is scored deeply or warped beyond spec. As to the flywheel, it's so thick that warping isn't a big issue, but scoring is. I really believe that what you are talking about came about because it's just such a pain to get into the clutch area to work on things. Luckily both of mine are actually pretty smooth. Replacing the pressure plate and having the flywheel shaved each time would be like the equivalent of changing the calipers on your brakes each time you put shoes on. I've changed brakes on cars many times over the years without having the rotors and drums turned, and I only replace a caliper if it needs it, never had a problem yet.

I would suggest a better hard fast rule, rather than changing pressure plates and cutting flywheels, would be a thorough and detailed inspection.

Speddmon, nice pics. Did you just lower the tranny to the floor?

sw

To the gravel...yes. I actually had a piece of scrap plywood I set it on and then slid it out of my way so I could crawl back under there and work on the flywheel and real main.

I was going to post this until I saw it was already in the resources section, but I still am since I can't add anything to that section as I do not have those privileges for the old site.

I bought the rear main seal from a local industrial supplier. The civilian part number for the rear main seal is

SKF manufacturer "Chicago Rawhide" CR brand. there are 3 part numbers that come up in the cross reference. They are 49927, this one is the one with the longer lasting flouroelastomer "Viton" seal...but it's a lot more expensive too. The other two are both "Nitrile" seals and the part numbers are 49928 and 49929. I purchased the 49928 seal, it cost me $20.82 and fit like a glove. CR also lists a "speedysleeve" to work with that seal as well. So anybody who has a groove worn in their crank can get the speedysleeve, it is part number 99499.

Also, While I was trying to find the clutch disk locally, I came across a manufacturer and part number for the clutch disk. They manufacture all of the components for the clutches, so if you wanted to call them and research a little further, I'm sure you could come up with part numbers for the entire clutch kit. However, that being said, the manufacturer is Illinois Auto Truck Co. and the part number for the clutch disk is M-0707-CV. I don't know if you could find a better price locally versus a surplus dealer, but if you really want the information...there ya go.