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Chevy V8 mated with a TF727 M880

Bob H

Bob H

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:ditto:
a set of performance heads, carb, intake and cam will bring a 318 to life! a 360 too.
I can't relate to pricing from Denmark, but $8000 for a motor! ouch


PS
Batco, my grandparents came to the USA from Copenhagen
 
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dragonwagon

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From his first post it seems he has a running motor . Set of rings and bearings would freshen it up , bore it 60 T if he wants more power . Im sure there are performance parts avalible there seems they have the motors around .
 
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Bacto

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Yeah the old 318 runs no problems at all, its just a bit tired, and the transmission was rebuild 5000miles ago, so no problems there.

From what i heard bringing life into a 318 is like kicking a dead horse, nothing much will come of it.

Rebuilding the engine might be an option to consider, no doubt i can get the parts here in Denmark.
 

Attachments

bubba_got_you

bubba_got_you

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[FONT=&quot]The 318 poly is the best motor I have ever had. It will last forever and will put out plenty of power if you do the right mods. I say rebuild your 318 with a cam and headers and maby a holly 4 barrel then if you want more power there are other things you can play with.
[/FONT]
 
67_C-30

67_C-30

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Bacto said:
Wont boring the engine weaken the whole block ?
Click to expand...

No, you can bore it .060" safely, but .030" would most likely be all it would need if it has never been bored before.

Oh, the 318 can easily be made to stronger than a stock 350. 318's are great engines and respond well to moderate power mods. Swapping to a part time 4X4 frees up a bunch of power too.

Here's not so dead horse 318's')

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7KHHLVTNM0[/media]

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8auJWiuSqw&feature=related[/media]

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkUGIHIb8Go&feature=related[/media]

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B74ACQbowas&feature=related[/media]
 
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Bacto

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Ill take one of each please =) On a small side note those cars are alot lighter than my 4500lbs truck but i get your point.

Read alot of different opinions about swapping to a part time 4X4. From my one point of view i dont think ill be going 2WD since is very light in the back, and all the weight of the engine is right on top of the front wheels.

And on a few occasions i have done a 4 wheel power slide sideways trough a intersection, with the road being only damp, and counter steering with a wheel that size of a coffee table is difficult to say the least... but fun =)
 
67_C-30

67_C-30

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Bacto said:
Ill take one of each please =) On a small side note those cars are alot lighter than my 4500lbs truck but i get your point.

Read alot of different opinions about swapping to a part time 4X4. From my one point of view i dont think ill be going 2WD since is very light in the back, and all the weight of the engine is right on top of the front wheels.

And on a few occasions i have done a 4 wheel power slide sideways trough a intersection, with the road being only damp, and counter steering with a wheel that size of a coffee table is difficult to say the least... but fun =)
Click to expand...
Another good way of a gaining a bunch of low end torque would be building a stroker. The one below is around $1,500, and comes with a new nodular iron crank (stronger than stock), forged I beam rods, and forged dished or flattop pistons. It increases it to 349 cu in. If you have that along with a towing or 4x4 cam, better exhaust, intake and carb, it would move the truck very well.

You can use 4X4 when it wet or icy, but there's no reason for a truck to need 4X4 in normal conditions. Turning the front axles and transfer case on dry pavement saps power, drinks fuel, and prematurely wears components. There hasn't been an American full size truck built in last 30 years that had full time 4X4.


http://www.rpmmachine.com/318-349-chrysler-stroker.shtml
 
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Bacto

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Yeah was about to ask if it wasnt posible to turn it into a stroker without to much hassle, the Chevy engine i have is a stroker in fact, but still a chevy =/ but that kits seems fairly straight forward. I might even have some money left over if i resell the Chevy engine, and rebuild the old 318.

Might have to look into the parttime 4x4 again, didnt seem to difficult to do it yourself. Wouldnt it require a new shifter for the transfer case ?
 
67_C-30

67_C-30

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Bacto said:
Yeah was about to ask if it wasnt posible to turn it into a stroker without to much hassle, the Chevy engine i have is a stroker in fact, but still a chevy =/ but that kits seems fairly straight forward. I might even have some money left over if i resell the Chevy engine, and rebuild the old 318.

Might have to look into the parttime 4x4 again, didnt seem to difficult to do it yourself. Wouldnt it require a new shifter for the transfer case ?
Click to expand...
No, the shifter stays the same. Here's a good writeup on it.

Offroad Exchange - MileMarker Dodge PT Conversion
 
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Bacto

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Did a bit of reading into the parttime 4WD, and seems to me that the only reason to do it would be gas mileage. If its about wear and tear, how big of a difference are we talking about i terms of longer parts life 10% or what ?

How much does it affect gas mileage ?

In order to not have the front driveshaft move at all during driving, wouldnt you have to install two new hubs into front axle to disengage the the front diff completely ?
 
goodbrewing

goodbrewing

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I converted my M886 to locking hubs by getting a newer donor axle and swapping out from the ball joints out to the newer locking set up. I used new ball joints, bearings and brake rotors but my almost new calipers from the 886 worked fine with the newer parts. I put the Milemarker kit into the transfer case and it has worked great for years. There is a bigger kit available that has all the transfer case and hub parts you need but I got a good deal on the donor axle so for me it was cheaper that way. I did mine for highway driving. Didn't notice much change in MPG but front drive parts last longer now.I can't say how much longer but after my front drive shaft gave out at the CV style joint at 70 mph and it caused a broken axle shaft I decided it was time. The amount of wear saved depends how much you keep the front end hubs locked. I only need 4X4 a few times a year and if I think I might need it I just leave the hubs locked.
 
IdahoPlowboy

IdahoPlowboy

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White666 said:
Buying an engine state side and having it shipped wouldn't be all that expencive, there are options to avoid the chevy disese (sorry i've been into mopars for years, never blown one up yet compared to numerous SB chevys i've seen scattered all over the place)
Click to expand...
Yes those SBC are notorious for there lack of longevity.:roll:
Did you read his post on the costs of getting a motor shipped?
 
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Bacto

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IdahoPlowboy said:
Yes those SBC are notorious for there lack of longevity.:roll:
Did you read his post on the costs of getting a motor shipped?
Click to expand...
About that turns out i made a slight error, the shipping fee is add before import tax and taxes are added, making it even more expensive to import an engine !

How much do you use your trucks a year, seems like some of you guys use them every day ? only use mine every once in a while, its great fun driving it to the mall and having everybody look at that big ass truck, but fiting it into a booth made for a standard size european car is tricky =)

The whole swaping and axle thing is really out of the question since i have only seen one other truck like mine being offered to sale / spare parts, i the year i have had my truck. Even went to look at one, but it was rusted beyond repair, with rust in the whole structure of the cab, only thing that wasnt rusted was the glass. Which makes finding used parts very difficult.
 
goodbrewing

goodbrewing

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Sad to hear parts are so scarce there. Don't let those rust buckets scare you. If the mechanical parts are good they can keep yours on the road for years and save you a fortune when you need something. The donor axle doesn't have to be from the same truck. Mine was from a mid 80s dodge. I think any dana 44 8 lug with locking hubs would give you the parts you need but it might just be better to go with the full Milemarker kit that has everything or just leave it as is. If you don't go far or fast it will be good to go for many years.
I put around 8-10,000 miles a year on my M886 and many of those are with a loaded trailer behind it. You get some looks when you pull a trailer loaded with another M886 300 miles at highway speeds from Cape Cod Mass. to North west Vt. And that is with a 318. A little bit of a workout up hills but handled it just fine. I rebuilt the motor 5-6 years ago but just a mild cam, timing set, oil pump, rings and bearings. Still has the original 2 barrel carb. They are work horses.
 
67_C-30

67_C-30

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goodbrewing said:
Sad to hear parts are so scarce there. Don't let those rust buckets scare you. If the mechanical parts are good they can keep yours on the road for years and save you a fortune when you need something. The donor axle doesn't have to be from the same truck. Mine was from a mid 80s dodge. I think any dana 44 8 lug with locking hubs would give you the parts you need but it might just be better to go with the full Milemarker kit that has everything or just leave it as is. If you don't go far or fast it will be good to go for many years.
I put around 8-10,000 miles a year on my M886 and many of those are with a loaded trailer behind it. You get some looks when you pull a trailer loaded with another M886 300 miles at highway speeds from Cape Cod Mass. to North west Vt. And that is with a 318. A little bit of a workout up hills but handled it just fine. I rebuilt the motor 5-6 years ago but just a mild cam, timing set, oil pump, rings and bearings. Still has the original 2 barrel carb. They are work horses.
Click to expand...

I agree. If the truck isn't a daily driver, I'd just freshen up or stroke the 318, go with a towing cam and maybe a 4 bbl, and it will run a lot stronger than it did stock.
 
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