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Thread: M220 AirPak rebuild.

  1. #31
    Sergeant Major tlmob1's Avatar
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    I must have missed out on where you picked up the M54/800 airpack rebuild kit. Just in case I need to get one. any assistance would be appreciated.
    Tlmob1
    SK1, USCG Retired
    1952 M135
    1953 M104A1
    1951 M105XB
    1983 M105A3

  2. #32
    4 Star General USMC 00-08's Avatar
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    I got mine here since they had the best price at the time. Maybe there are cheaper ones but I am not sure.

    http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/rekitform55t.html
    02-1952 M135 W/O #5314 - Reg. #4G3868 (winch added at some point in its life)
    01-1952 M135 W/O #4984 - Reg. #41143???
    12-1951 M135 W/O #3194 - Reg. #41122836 945th Maint Co, 945th Antiaircraft Artillery Bn., Milford Delaware
    11-1951 M135 W/O #556 - Reg. #41121215 5th Army, 816th Quartermaster, Ft. Leonard Wood

    Video of #4984 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FUElX_64i4
    Video of #5314 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYMiR2DT7Fo

  3. #33
    4 Star General Oldfart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlmob1 View Post
    I must have missed out on where you picked up the M54/800 airpack rebuild kit. Just in case I need to get one. any assistance would be appreciated.
    We got ours off eBay. Can't remember the exact price we paid, but it was not much. Sticks in my mind it as around $10.
    M220.......1955 GMC "Warwagon" (active duty 55 yrs)
    M37.........1953 Dodge (purchased 1963)
    M101........Purchased 1968

    Military Vehicle Collectors of Colorado (MVCC)

  4. #34
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    As I have posted on here numerous times, we have had a continuing problem with the brakes on my Dad's M135 contually locking up.
    I have re-done eveything, and paid to have the airpack rebuilt by a supposed expert, twice.
    Still am about ready to give up. Almost.
    Would you consider rebuilding ours. We would of course pay whatever the fair cost?
    Just considering??
    The truck, nice as it is is worthless if we cant drive it.
    RegardsTrk 7.jpgTRK2.jpg

  5. #35
    4 Star General Oldfart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad View Post
    As I have posted on here numerous times, we have had a continuing problem with the brakes on my Dad's M135 contually locking up.
    I have re-done eveything, and paid to have the airpack rebuilt by a supposed expert, twice.
    Still am about ready to give up. Almost.
    Would you consider rebuilding ours. We would of course pay whatever the fair cost?
    Just considering??
    The truck, nice as it is is worthless if we cant drive it.
    RegardsTrk 7.jpgTRK2.jpg
    I am wondering what you mean by "lock up". We have someone in our club with an upgraded Deuce where the brakes were converted to a dual master cylinder. After a couple of stops, his brakes lock up and he can't get them to release unless he bleeds off a brake line. If by lock up you mean the brakes are very sensitive and grabby, we find that is common to many M211/M135 series including our M220.
    M220.......1955 GMC "Warwagon" (active duty 55 yrs)
    M37.........1953 Dodge (purchased 1963)
    M101........Purchased 1968

    Military Vehicle Collectors of Colorado (MVCC)

  6. #36
    4 Star General m1010plowboy's Avatar
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    We should keep the JollyRoger rebuild sticky as a learning thread and put your solutions on one of your original threads Brad. It's all good information that we like to keep for future "Brake Problems", so we'll link your solutions over here http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...!!-Need-advice so we can find you.

    The Air-Pak challenge might be solved with a simple cleaning and lubrication of the large diameter "Air" side of the Air Pak but there is a way to determine if it's a hydraulic or air problem. Draining the air-tanks each time you drive it may help keep this from happening.

    PA310094.jpgPB010141.jpg

    We were fortunate enough to have 2 trucks go through the "Brakes lock and don't unlock when pedal pressure is released" symptom. We started to do forensic work on the Air-Paks to see if we could nail down the problem.

    There is one easy step to see if the large piston is coming all the way back which allows fluid to flow 'away' from the wheel cylinders. 3 steps if you haven't already opened the valves on the air-tanks.

    1) Open valves on air-tanks to be sure there is no air pressure in the system.
    2) Remove small plug at back of air-pak.
    3) Insert measuring device into hole and see what your dip depth is.

    The depth on a fully seated air piston is 1 1/4"

    PB030158.jpgPB030162.jpg

    If the large piston is properly seated then it is possible the valve that allows 'brake fluid' to return through the air-pak is hung up, sticking, not moving properly.

    This next step needs to be done once the brakes are properly set up which means jacking up the truck and following more simple steps listed on page 439 of the 9-8024 TM.

    Once the brakes are set properly you just open the valves on the air-tanks and test for proper operation of the brakes without air assist. The way this landscaper is reading things, the fluid flows into "G" inlet line and out through "H" the outlet line as long as the rod "MM" is in the fully returned position. If the brakes return properly without air, then the problem is in your "Air" side of the system, which can be an easy fix.

    PB010139.jpgPB010138.jpg

    If the fluid does not return properly and release brakes, then the problem is likely with piston "GG" which is more difficult to get at or "A" which sits at the start of the air supply line. .

    PB010134.jpg

    Get the brakes set back up properly, test the beast without air and dip the air side, large piston to see what you're dealing with before you do another tear-out.

    There could also be a slight deflection/ dent/ deviation in the shape of the large canister which will hang up the large piston and prevent it from returning to the 'full open' position. This Plate/Packing assembly (H&G), shows a slight oval in the housing which could be a part of our problem on Gizmo, the M135. Gizmo's owner suggested using a pipe with the same outside diameter OD as the inside diameter ID of the canister to help round things out.

    PB030164.jpg

    If the problem is just with the air side of the Air-Pak then it's only the air pipe and the large canister that need to come off for cleaning. We still need to be careful with dismantling the large canister. I'm tearing down 2 air-paks and on one of them the canister to housing rubber seal appeared soft and stretched out when I pulled the canister off. We need to check if one of the 'newer style' air-pak kits has this seal or find an alternative.

    PA310127.jpg

  7. #37
    4 Star General USMC 00-08's Avatar
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    That last seal you mentioned is in the rebuild kit I got. What I don't know and should have checked, is if it is a standard o-ring size that you can get anywhere, without having to buy the whole kit to get it.

    I also used the power piston out of an M809 series airpac like is mentioned in this rebuild thread.
    02-1952 M135 W/O #5314 - Reg. #4G3868 (winch added at some point in its life)
    01-1952 M135 W/O #4984 - Reg. #41143???
    12-1951 M135 W/O #3194 - Reg. #41122836 945th Maint Co, 945th Antiaircraft Artillery Bn., Milford Delaware
    11-1951 M135 W/O #556 - Reg. #41121215 5th Army, 816th Quartermaster, Ft. Leonard Wood

    Video of #4984 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FUElX_64i4
    Video of #5314 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYMiR2DT7Fo

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